Category Archives: Astrophotography

Canon, once the undisputed king of award-worthy astrophotography, has been dethroned after ruling the roost for almost half a decade. An annual study has gathered data on the last six years of shortlisted images from the Astronomy Photographer of the Year contest. By analyzing a whopping 828 images, it found some pretty interesting results and trends.

The study has shown that over the past six years, the Canon EOS 6D has been the most used camera – and Canon was the most-used brand overall. However, over the past two years, it has been surpassed by Nikon and Sony, with the Sony A7 III and the Nikon Z6 II being the most successful mirrorless cameras in the competition, with a significant overall increase in mirrorless bodies being used.

A similar study published in 2018 showed that the percentage of mirrorless camera users stood at 17%, but this year has seen that figure rise to 58% – a significant increase that replicates the movement to mirrorless observed in other fields of photography.

The information comes from the study published by Astro website Skies & Scopes, which analyzed the images entered in the Astronomy Photographer of the Year Competition operated by Royal Museums Greenwich in the UK.

By examining the 828 shortlisted images over the past 6 years, it collated data on the all gear used – cameras, lenses, telescopes, and more have been tracked and plotted on graphs to provide useful information to other Astro enthusiasts to find the best equipment for taking photographs of space.

Full frame cameras are the most used and the most successful, the study finds, with a staggering 87% compared to APS-C at 13%. This is to be expected, as the full-frame sensor size allows for greater coverage of light, allowing it to perform more successfully in low light. This is even more evident when narrowing down the category to Landscape Astrophotography where full-frame cameras amount to 97% of the images.

Sigma leads the way in the lens category, with the Sigma 14mm f/1.8 Art and 14mm f/2.8 and lenses being the most used for landscape astrophotography. Perhaps this is another reason that Canon is losing ground in the mirrorless battle, as the RF mount is still effectively (well, selectively) closed to third parties.

Other standout results from the article include:

• ZWO cameras lead for both planetary and deep sky imaging with the successful planetary cameras being the ZWO ASI174MM and ZWO ASI178MM.

• Celestron is the most successful telescope manufacturer overall, with the most successful planetary imaging telescopes being named Celestron C11 and C14 Schmidt-Cassegrains.

There are also results regarding the most common and successful star trackers, deep-sky telescopes, and telescope mounts.

The Astronomy Photographer of the Year provides an array of stunning images showcasing the beauty of our solar system. You can see last year’s winners at an exhibition at Royal Museums Greenwich.

Take a look at the best cameras for astrophotography, and make sure to pair them with the best lenses for astrophotography. If you’re more interesting in looking than shooting, check out the best telescopes for astrophotography and the best binoculars for astronomy.

A rosy red nebula takes center stage in a new photo from the European Southern Observatory (ESO). 

The expansive cloud of dust and gas, known as IC1284, is an emission nebula, a bright, diffuse cloud of ionized gas that emits its own light. This particular emission nebula, found at the center of the image, glows red from active star formation and the fusion of hydrogen in the region. 

Photographing a solar eclipse can be a life-changing, yet challenging experience. This video (recommended to me by Fred Espenack) describes the incredible experience of a total solar eclipse. 

You may only get a few chances in your lifetime to view or photograph this celestial event, so you want to make sure you have everything you need. It’s also important to be well-prepared and practice beforehand.

Check the specific safety and photography recommendations for the type of solar eclipse you plan to observe, as the precautions and techniques may vary.

While my personal solar eclipse photography experiences have been limited, I do have some practical advice to share with those preparing for the upcoming annular solar eclipse in October 2023, and the total solar eclipse in 2024. 

The equipment I used to photograph the Annular solar eclipse in June 2021. Canon EF 300mm F/4 lens + Certified Safe Solar Filter.

Most importantly, never compromise on eye safety or equipment quality when photographing the Sun.

Here is a quick breakdown of how to photograph a solar eclipse, covered in more detail below.

• Research the date, time, and location of the solar eclipse, and look for an unobstructed view of the Sun
• Ensure you have all the right equipment, including a manual camera, tripod, telephoto lens, and certified eye protection and solar filters
• Attach your solar filter to your camera lens
• Set up your equipment, choose your camera settings, and find focus using live view mode only (do not look through the camera’s viewfinder).
• Compose your shot using live view mode only (do not look through the camera’s viewfinder)
• Take test shots before the eclipse begins to ensure your settings (particularly your exposure) are correct
• Start capturing the eclipse as soon as it starts. Include shots over and underexposed to capture all the details
• Review your images and adjust accordingly as the brightness will continue to change throughout the eclipse
• Take breaks to enjoy the eclipse visually with your solar glasses

Partial Solar Eclipse over Lake Ontario | Trevor Jones. 

What is a Solar Eclipse?

As a review, a solar eclipse is a celestial event where the moon passes between the Sun and planet Earth, resulting in the moon blocking our view of the Sun (either totally or partially) from a particular point on Earth. 

There are three different types of solar eclipses: 

• Partial Solar Eclipse: a portion of the Sun is covered
• Annular Solar Eclipse: a ‘ring of fire’ shines around the moon, centered in front of the Sun
• Total Solar Eclipse: the Sun is fully covered by the moon

The type of eclipse depends on the alignment of the moon, Earth, and the Sun, and how far away the moon is from Earth.

Types of Solar Eclipses. www.timeanddate.com.

When is the Next Solar Eclipse?

The frequency of solar eclipses varies due to the changing distances and angles between the Sun, Moon, and Earth over time.

The alignment of the moon, Sun and Earth takes place approximately every six months during a period of time known as eclipse season. This results in two to five solar eclipses each year, though they are not visible from every location on Earth. 

Below is a table of the varying types of solar eclipses and their expected dates for the next few years. For more information and maps, visit Time and Date.

Date	Solar Eclipse Type	Visibility Path
October 14, 2023	Annular	The ‘ring of fire’ is visible along a narrow path that crosses the USA from Oregon to Texas. It passes over parts of Mexico, Belize, Guatemala, Honduras, Nicaragua, Costa Rica, Panama, Colombia, and Brazil. A partial eclipse will be visible in the Americas from Alaska to Argentina.
April 8, 2024	Total	The narrow path of totality runs through Mexico, the USA (from Texas to Maine), and Canada (from Ontario to Newfoundland). A partial eclipse will be visible across nearly all of North America, and a small part of western Europe.
October 2, 2024	Annular	Most of South America, Pacific, Atlantic, Antarctica.
March 29, 2025	Partial	A partial eclipse will be visible in north western Europe, north in Asia, Africa, eastern North America, North in South America, Atlantic, Arctic.
September 21, 2025	Partial	A partial eclipse will be visible in south-eastern Australia, Pacific, Atlantic, Antarctica.
February 17, 2026	Annular	Partial eclipse will be visible in south Africa, Pacific, Atlantic, Indian Ocean, Antarctica.
August 12, 2026	Total	Partial solar eclipse will be visible in most of Europe, northwestern Asia, northwestern Africa, Much of Canada and northeastern US, Pacific, Atlantic, Arctic.

Eye Safety

The most important thing to remember is that it’s not safe to look directly at the Sun without eye protection made for solar viewing.

To prevent eye damage and to view/photograph a solar eclipse safely :

• Never view the Sun through a camera lens, telescope, or other optics without a proper solar filter over the front of the optics to avoid serious eye injury. 
• Solar filters must be attached to the front of any telescope, camera lens or other optics. Do not use non-solar filter drop-in lens filters or place solar filters between your camera and lens. 
• Do not use solar glasses as a filter for your camera or other optical devices. 
• All filters should be ISO 12312-2 standard certified. Purchase from a reputable astronomy dealer or company (i.e. Celestron, Lunt Solar Systems, Astrozap etc.)
• Inspect your solar viewing gear (i.e. solar glasses, filters, etc.) for any damage before you use them. If there are holes (no matter how small) do not use them.
• Do not use the optical viewfinder on your camera (there is no solar protection there), opt for the live view mode on your screen.

Viewing the sun through eclipse glasses

Equipment Needed 

There are a few pieces of equipment you will need to photograph a solar eclipse.

You will want to practice setting up your equipment and taking test shots before the eclipse to help you become familiar with your gear and settings.

• DSLR/Mirrorless Camera: you will need a camera with manual settings. DSLR and mirrorless cameras are popular choices because they allow for manual control of exposure settings.
• Telephoto Lens: a camera lens with at least 300mm focal length, though 400mm – 500mm is better. You can look at renting one if you don’t have a lens this length. 
• Solar Filter: a certified solar filter (ISO 12312-2 standard) is needed to protect your eyes, camera, and lens from the Sun’s harmful UV rays. Select a filter that fits the size of your lens and never photograph the Sun without a proper solar filter.
• Tripod: a stable but lightweight tripod will keep your camera steady, but also allow for easy transport if you need to travel to view your solar eclipse. 
• Shutter Release Cable: this cable gets plugged into your camera to capture images without having to touch your camera and deal with camera shake. This will help produce sharper images. 
• Eclipse Glasses: you will want to safely observe the eclipse while your camera is running.
• Memory Cards: be sure to have plenty of storage space for the large number of photos you may capture. It’s also a good idea to bring a backup. 
• Fully Charged Batteries: be sure to fully charge your batteries beforehand, and have fully charged backups just in case.
• Solar Eclipse App: use a solar eclipse app to help you predict the timing and duration of the eclipse from your location. Plan your location in advance, while considering the direction of the Sun, to ensure you have an unobstructed view.

Reviewing my Solar Eclipse photos in Adobe Bridge. 

Choosing a Camera Lens

The camera lens you choose is arguably the most important piece of gear when shooting a solar eclipse. Your focal length is going to be an important factor when deciding which lens to use. 

If you want an up-close view of the Sun, you will need a high focal length. A 200mm lens on a full-frame camera will only produce a tiny view of the Sun, with the extreme of 2000mm potentially cutting off parts of the corona. 

A lens in the 800mm – 1200mm range is ideal to get a close-up view and still capture all the details of the corona. Most people do not have access to lenses with such long focal lengths, so you can utilize a crop sensor camera and/or a teleconverter for some extra reach.

I used a Canon EF 300mm F/4 Lens with a 1.4X Teleconverter to photograph the Annular Eclipse in June 2021. 

There is also the option to rent a camera lens if you are lucky enough to find a place that hasn’t already rented out all their longer focal length lenses. 

Choosing a Solar Filter

As mentioned above, will need a solar filter to photograph a solar eclipse. To choose the appropriate solar filter, you will need to decide on the camera lens or telescope you will be using.

The diameter of your lens/telescope will affect the size of the solar filter since it needs to be placed on the front of the objective lens. If you are unsure of your lens diameter, you can measure across the front, from one side to the other.

The Thousand Oaks Optical SolarLite Solar Filter Film is a great option and allows you to safely cover your binoculars, telescope, or camera lens. 

Ensure that the filter you choose is ISO 12312-2 certified. As mentioned above, it is best to purchase your solar filter from reputable sources, such as astronomy equipment suppliers or certified dealers. 

It’s a good idea to read reviews and seek recommendations from experienced photographers or astronomers who have successfully used solar filters for eclipse photography. They can often provide recommendations for quality filters.

 

Types of Solar Filters

You do not have to sacrifice safety if you are on a budget. Solar filters come in a range of different types and prices, with affordable options that meet safety standards.

First off, you will need to consider how the filter will attach to your lens or telescope. Filters can be made with or without the option to firmly mount them to your camera lens or telescope.

Depending on which filter you choose, you will want to make sure you know how to clean it properly. 

DIY Solar Filter

The cheapest option for solar filters is the ‘do-it-yourself’ option. You can make your own solar filter for your camera or telescope using solar film, a poster board, and a few other supplies. 

For a detailed post about creating your own solar filter, click here. 

DIY Solar Filter | Agena Astro

• Solar Sheet Filters: a flexible material that can be cut to size to create a custom filter to attach to camera lenses, telescopes etc. Designed specifically for solar viewing and photography and is available in sheets or rolls. 

Solar Film Sheets/Rolls from Agena Astro

Universal Solar Filters

Universal filters are made to fit a wide range of camera lenses and telescopes, regardless of their size or diameter. They are adaptable and can be used of many different optical instruments, making them a versatile, and often an affordable option for solar photography. 

Universal solar filter made from solar film | Celestron 

Fitted Solar Filters 

These types of filters are designed for a specific aperture using a combination of flexible solar film or glass and a bracket. They will include a secure method for mounting it to your lens/telescope objective (i.e. hook and loop straps, bracket etc.)

EclipSmart Solar Filter – 6” SCT | Celestron

Threaded Solar Filters 

If you are looking to photograph the Sun with your camera lens, this is the best option. A threaded solar filter for your camera lens allows you to safely point your camera at the Sun. 

Threaded solar filters are different in that they match the filter threads on your camera lens and are designed to be mounted by screwing directly onto the front of a camera lens or telescope.

They are designed to maintain image clarity and quality and are typically more expensive than universal solar filters due to their glass design and optical performance.

Examples of threaded solar filters include:

• Solar Glass Filters: high-quality, coated glass that provides excellent quality, durability, and protection. They are usually manufactured professionally and come in threaded or custom-sized versions to fit camera lenses and telescope apertures. 

Thousand Oaks Optical 77mm threaded camera lens filter. Available at Agena Astro. 

• Hydrogen-Alpha Filters: specialized filters for observing the Sun’s chromosphere. They are commonly used to observe solar prominences and other features in the Sun’s outer atmosphere.

These filters are typically more expensive. The example shown below is the chromosphere model, which is suitable for photographing surface details and broad prominences. 

The DayStar Camera Quark Solar Filter with Canon EF Lens Mount. Available at Agena Astro.

How to Photograph a Solar Eclipse 

You’re ready to get photograph a solar eclipse, here’s what you need to know.

• Plan your Location: before the eclipse, research the date, time, and location using astronomical apps or websites.  Pick a spot with an unobstructed view of the Sun.
• Gather the necessary equipment: be sure to have the right equipment, including a DSLR/mirrorless camera, 300mm+ telephoto lens, tripod, and solar filter.
• Practice safety: when making any adjustments to your framing or focus, never look through the camera’s viewfinder. Use live view on the camera’s screen.
• Attach your solar filter: attach your filter securely to your lens, the filter should cover the entire front of the lens
• Set up your equipment: mount your camera and set it to manual mode to adjust your settings. Set your ISO, aperture, and shutter speed, and adjust focus. For tips on settings, see the section below.
• Compose your shot: using any foreground interest, compose your shot without using the camera’s viewfinder (use live view only). Plan your composition in advance, if possible.
• Test your settings: before the eclipse begins, take test shots to ensure your camera settings, particularly your exposure settings, are correct. You will want to expose the Sun’s disk. 
• Capture the eclipse: start shooting the eclipse and adjust your shutter speed and exposure settings as the Sun goes through different phases of the eclipse. Consider over and under-exposing (i.e. bracketing) a range of frames to capture the disk and corona details of the eclipse for a full dynamic range image.
• Review and adjust: review your exposures on your camera’s screen and adjust according. Do not use the camera’s viewfinder.
• Enjoy the eclipse: Don’t forget to take a break from shooting to enjoy the event with your solar glasses and observe. 

Total Solar Eclipse Corona in HDR. Astronomy Picture of the Day (APOD) Nicolas Lefaudeux.

Photographing a Total Solar Eclipse

When photographing a total solar eclipse, the process will change slightly. 

First of all, it is safe to look at the Sun without eye protection when the Sun is completely covered by the moon during the total eclipse phase only. During this phase, solar filters must be removed to capture the details of the Sun’s corona.

Similar to a partial and annular eclipse, be sure to bracket the exposures over a range of shutter speeds (i.e. 1/1000 second to 1 second) to capture the details. 

The Diamond Ring Effect during a Total Solar Eclipse | Fred Espenak 

When photographing a total solar eclipse, you will want to look for the following effects:

• Baily’s beads effect: as the moon covers the Sun during a total solar eclipse, you can see the rugged topography of the moon that allows only sparse amounts of sunlight to shine through in certain areas. Look for these irregularities on the edge of the moon just before totality and immediately afterward.
• Diamond ring effect: happens right before or after the moon covers the Sun during a total solar eclipse. With only a small portion of sunlight remaining, it creates the appearance of a shining ‘single diamond’ on the edge of a ring.
• Prominences: with only a small portion of sunlight showing during a total solar eclipse, there is the chance to see gaseous formations on the surface of the Sun. They start on the surface and extend out into the Sun’s outer atmosphere (i.e. corona). 

Camera Settings

You’re ready to photograph a solar eclipse, here are some settings to try:

• ISO: Unlike astrophotography at night, you do not need a high ISO setting to photograph the extremely bright sun. Start with ISO 100, and work your way up from there based on the following settings. 
• Aperture: You can use your aperture to increase/decrease the amount of light you let into the camera body and onto the sensor. Start with F/4, and increase the f-ratio if your image is too bright. 
• Shutter Speed: High shutter speeds are the name of the game when it comes to solar photography. 1/1000 is a great place to start. I don’t recommend shooting under 1/500, especially if you are not tracking the Sun. 
• Focus: Use the edges of the disc of the Sun to focus your camera lens or telescope. From there, use prominences (if possible) or sunspots to dial it in even further. 

You can find more information about camera settings in this guide developed by Fred Espenak (also known as Mr. Eclipse).

The night sky tonight and on any clear night offers an ever-changing display of fascinating objects you can see, from stars and constellations to bright planets, the moon, and sometimes special events like meteor showers.

Observing the night sky can be done with no special equipment, although a sky map can be very useful, and a good telescope or binoculars will enhance some experiences and bring some otherwise invisible objects into view. You can also use astronomy accessories to make your observing easier, and use our Satellite Tracker page powered by N2YO.comto find out when and how to see the International Space Station and other satellites. We also have a helpful guide on how you can see and track a Starlink satellite train. 

The European Southern Observatory (ESO) shared a beautiful new image of stars trailing across the night sky. It was taken at the ESO’s Paranal Observatory, located in the Chilean Atacama Desert. The observatory is home to the Very Large Telescope (VLT), which consists of four Unit Telescopes and four smaller, movable Auxiliary Telescopes, like the one in the foreground of the image on the right.

Astronomers used a long exposure technique in which the night sky is photographed over several hours, capturing the movements of stars as they travel overhead. This creates a dazzling trailing effect, where  starlight appears to arc over the observatory’s ground-based telescopes.

Two bright orange lasers are also seen beaming out of one of the Unit Telescopes. These laser beams, known as laser guide stars, are used to correct the distortion of starlight caused by Earth’s turbulent atmosphere, according to a statement from the ESO. The beams are pointed in opposite directions because the long exposure technique took several hours to complete, during which the telescope moved to observe different targets in the sky, ESO officials said.

Related: Amazing space views of ESO’s Very Large Telescope (photos)

A laser guide star creates an artificial star by shooting a laser beam into the sky, which excites sodium atoms in the upper layer of the atmosphere and causes them to glow like stars. This, in turn, provides a reference point for ground-based telescopes, enabling them to cancel out the effects of atmospheric turbulence and create a sharper image of the sky.

RELATED STORIES:

— How to photograph star trails

— Astrophotography for beginners 2023: How to shoot the night sky

— Very Large Telescope surprisingly finds exoplanet lurking in 3-body star system

“Each laser delivers 22 watts of power — about 4000 times the maximum allowed for a laser pointer — in a beam that’s about 30 centimeters in diameter,” ESO officials said in the statement. “This remarkable display doesn’t just look pretty: the twinkling of these artificial stars is measured in real time and used by the adaptive optics system to correct for the blurring caused by the Earth’s atmosphere so that the telescope can create sharp images.”

When we look up at the night sky, we see stars as individual points of twinkling light. However, the new image of the star trails over ESO’s Paranal Observatory remind us of Earth’s constant rotation, or spin, around its axis. Long exposure images such as this capture the beautiful motion of the sky as the Earth rotates relative to the backdrop of stars.

Of all the lone trees in the UK, the one at Sycamore Gap was arguably the most famous. It was situated almost smack bang in the middle of Hadrian’s wall and was featured in the 1991 movie Robin Hood: Prince of Thieves. The one-of-a-kind beauty spot’s photogenic nature and Dark Sky location made it a favourite among landscape photographers and astrophotographers, but it was also sought out by thousands of hikers, daytrippers, historians and local residents year upon year. It was a bastion of rural England and a symbol of the Northumberland National Park. It was even named tree of the year by the Woodland Trust in 2016. And now it’s gone…

The felled tree was found on September 28 and at the time of writing a police investigation is ongoing. Reuters quoted the police in calling it a “deliberate act of vandalism,” but the damage has already been done. You cannot simply replace a three-century-old tree and although the prospect of the stump providing new shoots has provided some solace, this is by no means a certainty. Even if the old tree does regrow, how can it measure up to the majesty of what was? After all, it was a textbook specimen – a tree from childhood picture books – the muse of millions of photographers and a movie star.

• Read more: Photographers react to Britain’s much-loved tree being chopped down at Sycamore Gap

But it’s the local residents I feel for most. Campsites, holiday cottages and B&Bs line the nearby Military Road. The Twice Brewed Inn is famously little more than a half-hour walk from the gap. Its logo is a silhouette of the sycamore tree and it runs a variety of stargazing and astrophotography events throughout the year. The Vindolanda Charitable Trust relies on footfall through its Roman Army Museum and Roman Vindolanda Fort & Museum, the latter being a live excavation site. And then you have the thousands of walkers who take up the Hadrian’s Wall Challenge every year, walking the 84-mile National Trail from Bowness-on-Solway to Wallsend (or vice versa). Sycamore Gap is one of the route’s biggest draws. And you have to assume that its destruction will have some kind of impact on local tourism and businesses.

Two weeks ago, a friend and I embarked on the Hadrian’s Wall Challenge. Roughly 67km in I twisted my knee and to make matters worse, I woke up in my tent the following morning with tonsillitis. Constant rain throughout the four-day hike from Bowness-on-Solway had beaten me down, and I couldn’t continue. My friend suggested struggling the final 2.5km to Sycamore Gap so I could at least see it, but with another deluge of rain falling upon my already sodden clothes and the prospect of a seven-hour journey home, I elected to hit the road. My intention was to return in the summer and finish what I’d started. Little did I know that my departing friend would be one of the last hikers to see the famed sycamore tree still standing. I’ve missed my chance, and I won’t be alone.

Much like the mindless act of cutting down a tree, I’m struggling to find a point to this article. I guess I’m sad that nobody else will get to experience or photograph Sycamore Gap. I’m sad because so many local businesses rely upon the landmark’s worldwide appeal. I’m sad because in a world where humanity is constantly reminded that it’s failing the planet, this feels like a cruel microcosm of more heartbreak to come.

I’m afraid too. Afraid that we’re powerless to safeguard historical and natural landmarks from a similar incident. It’s hardly an isolated one… In 2021 an osprey nest was felled at Llyn Brenig and nature reserves across the country regularly report acts of vandalism. It makes me want to do my part in safeguarding other areas of natural beauty. Refrain from geotagging landscape locations on Instagram, perhaps even refrain from photographing them altogether. But then again, isn’t photography and videography at least partially responsible for fuelling the nation’s passion for nature and history? And that passion is evident in the nationwide response to the felling. Hopefully it’s enough to deter other would-be vandals.

The sad truth, though, is that nothing can bring back Sycamore Gap. What really got me today was Google. The omniscient overlord of the Internet never misses a trick. Already, when you search Sycamore Gap on Google Maps, you are presented with a red pin. It no longer reads Sycamore Gap, just: Sycamore Stump…

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If you enjoyed this article, you might be interested in reading about the best Nikon Z lenses for FX and DX cameras. If you’re clinging to your DSLR you can also check out the best lenses for the Nikon D850, and it you’re embracing the revolution then take a look at the best lenses for the Nikon Z50.

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Key players which are covered in the global Astrophotography Cameras market is: Nikon,Canon,Sony,ZWO,QHYCCD,Atik Cameras,Fujifilm,Panasonic,Olympus,Leica

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Requires Connected Device or Specific Software

No Connected Devices or Specific Software Required

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Commercial

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The key regions covered in the Astrophotography Cameras market report are North America, Europe, Asia Pacific, Latin America, Middle East and Africa. It also covers key regions (countries), viz, U.S., Canada, Germany, France, U.K., Italy, Russia, China, Japan, South Korea, India, Australia, Taiwan, Indonesia, Thailand, Malaysia, Philippines, Vietnam, Mexico, Brazil, Turkey, Saudi Arabia, U.A.E, etc.

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COMTEX_441030183/2599/2023-09-27T03:40:18

Full moon dates in 2023

September 28-29, 2023
October 28, 2023
November 26-27, 2023
December 26-27, 2023

The Moon is one of nature’s wonders, but to photograph it successfully you first have to understand it. 

Although astrophotographers specializing in the Moon usually photograph it through a powerful telescope, a telephoto lens of almost any focal length is good enough to get a good Moon shot. Making the Moon the sole focus of a shot, however, is only one way to approach lunar photography; another is for it to enhance a landscape photo, where it can provide a powerful addition to a wide-angle image.

This month the full moon will occur on Friday 29 September – and is known as the Harvest Moon. The best time will be early in the morning in North America (5.58am ET). It is the last so-called supermoon of 2023 – as the moon is slightly closer than usual, so appears slightly larger in the sky.

Read more: Astrophotography tips

Equipment

The equipment you’ll need is the same as for wildlife or sports photography: a DSLR, mirrorless or bridge camera on a sturdy tripod, and either a wide-angle or any regular telephoto lens, such as one with a 70-300mm focal range. A remote shutter-release cable will also be useful so you don’t introduce vibrations, although you can also use the timer in your camera.

The Moon is a moving target; the combination of Moon’s 2,288 miles-per-hour orbit and Earth’s 1,000 miles-per-hour rotation makes our satellite a fast-moving target. However, it’s usually bright enough for a relatively fast shutter speed to yield good results.

How to focus on the Moon

Although you can autofocus on the Moon as it rises, or as it becomes visible just before sunset, it’s a good idea to focus manually. With your lens set to manual focus, set the the focusing ring to infinity. It takes some practice since most cameras can focus beyond infinity, and finding the exact point that works for your lens takes trial and error.

Take some test shots and zoom in on the result on your camera’s LCD screen to see which one works best. Don’t skip this step; only once you’ve done it correctly will your Moon photos be reliably sharp.

How to expose for the Moon

It’s a common mistake to overexpose the moon but it’s actually much brighter than you think. However, if you want to photograph the foreground and not just the moon by itself you will need to make sure your exposure works for both or use bracketing to take multiple shots with different exposures.

To get a great Moon shot and little else, set your camera to ISO 100 or ISO 200 and the aperture to between f/5.6 and f/11, and adjust your shutter speed to between 1/125sec and 1/250sec. The exact settings will vary depending on your camera and the brightness of the Moon, which depends on its exact phase, but these base settings will get you started.

Taking a landscape photograph that includes the Moon is more difficult because during that ‘blue hour’ after sunset the Moon is already too bright. So, if you take a longer exposure for the landscape, you’ll overexpose the Moon, and if you expose for the Moon, the landscape with be under-exposed. So what do you do?

The answer is either to photograph the Moon just before sunset when the light levels are higher (they drop-off so quickly at the point of sunset), or to take two exposures and combine them in photo-editing software. The latter approach, however, often looks fake. Another way is to expose for the Moon, and use a flash to light the foreground.

When to photograph the Moon

The full moon is probably the lunar event that most photographers will want to photograph first – but it is actually one of the most difficult due to the glare that this creates and July’s supermoon is the biggest and brightest of them all. Some of the most impressive shots of the full moon are those where it is seen behind a building or a natural structure – which makes the moon look much larger than it does to the naked eye.

If you want less of a cliche, go for other phases of the Moon when you can see a line between the light and dark sides. This is called the terminator line, which is when the craters on the Moon throw shadows, particularly near its South Pole. You can see this most nights, but perhaps the most precious kind of Moon is visible only on the few days on either side of New Moon. At this time, you’ll also see a waxing or waning Crescent Moon close to the horizon, and it comes with the bonus of Earthshine.

How to capture Earthshine on the Moon

Although 50% of the Moon is constantly being illuminated by the Sun, there are a few days each month when the Earth gets involved – and it’s a beautiful event to capture.

Earthshine is a dull glow to the unlit area of the Moon that’s the result of sunlight reflecting off Earth’s surface and onto the lunar surface. Its subtle and mesmerizing, and easy to capture if you time it right.

Set up for the first (or, more likely, the second) sunset after New Moon. Using a lens with as long a focal length lens as possible, and with your camera on a tripod, dial in a sensitivity of ISO 400, an aperture of f/2.8 (or as wide as your lens aperture will go), and open the shutter for between one and four seconds.

See our guide to photography earthshine

In fact, Earthshine is always being reflected onto the Moon to some extent, but it’s only around New Moon that the crescent of sunlight is small enough for the camera to expose for both the lit and unlit areas.

This is also a good time to combine Moon photography with night-sky photography because the Moon will set soon after you’ve photographed it. You can then go looking for stars and the Milky Way.

How to capture a moonrise or moonset

There are two exceptions to the advice to avoid photographing the Full Moon.

The first is when there’s a total lunar eclipse, and the second is when a Full Moon as it rises or sets, as it’s a great alternative to a sunset. The sight of a Full Moon peeking above the horizon and turning from deep orange to pale yellow to bright white during twilight is a spectacular sight. It also presents an opportunity to get the Moon in the context of a beautiful landscape.

The colourful spectacle lasts mere minutes and is easy to miss, but, like everything else in the night sky, a rising Full Moon is predictable down to the second. Simply find out exactly on what day the next Full Moon is going to be where you are, and exactly what time sunset is on that date, then look to the east for the moonrise. Start-off with your camera set to ISO 100, f10 and 1/125.

If you’ve ever seen photos of someone or something silhouetted against a seemingly giant Moon, perhaps while standing on top of a hill, they were taken during a moonrise. They were also ruthlessly planned; The Photographer’s Ephemeris and PhotoPills apps are ideal for this kind of project.

To make the Moon look so large in the background, photographers need to use superzoom telephoto lenses of at least 1,000mm while being positioned a mile or so away from the all-important foreground subject that introduces that sense of scale.

Composites, moon-stacks and super moons

It’s possible to shoot the Moon and add it to another landscape shot using Photoshop. However, almost everyone who attempts this either makes the Moon look way too big, or they place it somewhere in the night sky that it doesn’t occur (such as in the norther hemisphere’s northern sky).

To anyone with a trained eye, most composites look like what they are: fakes. There is one exception; moonstacks, a lunar time-lapse, in which you take several photos of the moon as it moves through the sky, and then use Photoshop to composite them into a single image.

Read more: How to create a moonstack

Although it often grabs the attention of photographers and media alike, pay little attention to the term ‘Super Moon’. A recent term that merely means that the Moon is slightly closer to Earth than normal, it has little practical meaning or use. However, while a Super Full Moon does look larger as it rises above the horizon, it’s only by about 10%-15%, so it’s barely noticeable to eye or camera.

The very finest way of getting a close-up shot of the Moon – and the only way to get enough magnification for it to fill the entire frame – is to mount the body of a camera on a telescope using a cheap T-adaptor; it’s like having a very large telephoto lens. Try to find a telescope with a focal length of over 1,000mm, but under 2,000mm to capture the whole of the moon.

Whatever kind of Moon-shot you try for, photographing our satellite provides a good lesson in the role of precision timing in composing unique landscape and nature images.

Read more

• The best lenses for astrophotography
• The best camera and gear for shooting the night sky
• Best light pollution filters
• The best telescopes for astrophotography

El próximo 12 de octubre el cometa periódico 103P/Hartley (también conocido como Hartley 2) alcanzará su perihelio, el momento de mayor proximidad al Sol. Esto le convierte en un cometa especialmente atractivo durante estas próximas noches ya que actualmente se encuentra en magnitud 8,8 con recorrido todavía para llegar a 8,5 siempre al alcance de telescopio y poco brillante para ser accesible con prismáticos pequeños.

Please check out this new shot of Comet C/103P Hartley taken yesterday by Chris Schur. It is currently in Auriga and glowing at about 9th magnitude, and may brighten from there. Take a look and let me know what you see! pic.twitter.com/K4YbVW3eTV

— David Eicher (@deicherstar) September 27, 2023

103P/Hartley fue descubierto en el año 1986 por Malcolm Hartley desde el Observatorio Siding Spring en Australia. Este cometa tiene un periodo muy corto, de tan solo 6,5 años, por lo que es un gran conocido entre la comunidad astronómica. Se calcula que tiene un tamaño de entre 1,2 y 1,6km.

En 2010, la sonda Deep Impact de la Nasa sobrevoló el comenta 103P/Hartley como parte de su misión extendida bautizada como EPOXI.

¿Cómo ver el cometa 103P/Hartley en 2023?

Durante estos primeros días de octubre encontraremos el cometa 103P/Hartley en la constelación de Auriga y moviéndose hacia Géminis pero la presencia de la luna menguante será un obstáculo por su proximidad sobre todo los días 6 y 7 de octubre. A partir de las 2 de la madrugada el cometa empieza a estar a unos 15º sobre el horizonte pero a medida que pasen los días y se acerque más al Sol, en su descenso por Géminis, tendremos que esperar más y más tarde por lo que casi es más recomendable madrugar e intentar observarlo antes del amanecer, cuando se encuentra más alto. Para el 12 de octubre tendremos casi luna nueva, por lo que será un buen momento para intentar observarlo desde cielos oscuros.

A partir del 19 de octubre el cometa se irá adentrando en Cáncer y seguiremos teniendo buenas condiciones para intentar su observación hasta aproximadamente el día 25 ya que para entonces el brillo de la Luna volverá a molestar bastante.