I really don’t see the appeal of 150-600mm lenses

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Sigma broke new ground when it launched the world’s first 150-600mm zoom lens back in 2014: the Sigma 150-600mm f/5-6.3 DG OS HSM | Sport. As a writer and reviewer of camera gear at the time, I was excited for this revolutionary new optic. It promised incredible reach compared to the classic 70-300mm telephoto focal range that most amateur and enthusiast photographers are accustomed to. 

The Sigma 150-600mm f/5-6.3 DG OS HSM | Sport didn’t break the bank, either; with an RRP of 1,500 bucks it brought the promise of a 600mm lens into reach for many enthusiasts.

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New Plymouth’s Larsen a rising star in the world of astrophotography

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Brendan Larsen spends hours out in the dark photographing the night sky.

He has to time it exactly right to ensure the stars align over Taranaki Maunga for the perfect shot.

Though Larsen has only been doing astrophotography for about three years he is already making his mark.

He is part of the Taranaki Arts Trail, this year from October, 27 – 29 and November 3-5, where he displays his pictures.

And his was one of 25 photos out of more than 3000 entries to be selected in the Milky Way Photographer of the Year, an international competition.

Two other Kiwis, Tom Rae and Larryn​ Rae were also honoured for their work in the Milky Way contest.

It’s the number one photography competition in terms of recognition worldwide, Larsen says.

“It’s really prestigious to be included in that, and I was really blown away.”

Larsen’s photos will be part of the Taranaki Arts Trail later in the year.

VANESSA LAURIE/Stuff

Larsen’s photos will be part of the Taranaki Arts Trail later in the year.

Larsen, who teaches English with Literacy Aotearoa, helping adults who struggle with reading or writing, and also does security guard work, got into astrophotography after he joined the Taranaki Astronomical Society in New Plymouth.

“I’d never been to an observatory before so went along and really enjoyed it. They had a camera hooked up to the telescope.”

As he got into his new hobby his little “point and shoot” wasn’t cutting it, so he invested money in good equipment and invested time in watching hours of YouTube videos to learn the craft.

For a photo of the Milky Way arching over Maunga Taranaki he took shots of the stars for four hours, spent 30 minutes photographing the foreground and then seven hours editing them together.

Larsen has a tracker on his camera that moves at the same speed as the stars.

VANESSA LAURIE/Stuff

Larsen has a tracker on his camera that moves at the same speed as the stars.

To get the best shots he uses a tracker on the camera that moves at the same speed as the stars, he says.

“But you end up with a blurry foreground. So you photograph the stars – a 2 minute shot here, then here, then here…until you get enough of the sky. And then you stitch them altogether with a programme I’ve got. Then you turn the tracker off and do a two or four minute shot of the foreground, or a panorama, about 10 shots, two minutes for each shot, then blend them in photoshop.”

There’s a lot of editing involved, he says.

“But by doing the longer exposure shots with the tracker you get a lot more colour and a lot more detail in the shots. You can’t see the colours in the Milky Way with your eyes, but the camera picks them up.”

Editing like this is allowed in the competitions. But joining things that don’t naturally belong together isn’t.

“I’ve seen a shot with the Pouakai tarns and the mountain. The Milky Way was perfectly lined up over the mountain. Straight away I knew it was fake, because the Milky Way doesn’t line up there. It rises in a totally different direction.”

Larsen went as far as taking a video to prove the moon really was rising over Taranaki Maunga as portrayed in one photo he took, he says.

“I’ve calculated exactly where to be to get the moon alignment like that. A big part of the challenge is being in the right place at the right time. I’d be out more often if the weather was good, but you’re lucky if you get one day a month. You don’t want even a little bit of cloud. If a cloud moves in front of a long exposure shot it ruins it.”

To get this photo he took shots of the stars for four hours, spent 30 minutes photographing the foreground and then seven hours editing them together.

VANESSA LAURIE/Stuff

To get this photo he took shots of the stars for four hours, spent 30 minutes photographing the foreground and then seven hours editing them together.

He has a lot of fun working out where in Taranaki he’ll get the best views and what time he needs to be there to get the moon or Milky Way lined up where he wants.

And they’re not the only calculations Larsen needs to do to get the perfect shot. The tracker on the camera has a motor inside that rotates at the speed of the rotation of the earth.

“So if you left it going for 24 hours, it would go all the way into a full rotation. With this kind of tracker you have to point it to the south celestial pole, so it’s lined up with the axis or rotation of the earth. I’ve got a hiking sort of compass, and I’ll find where south is, and I’ll line it up.

Larsen went as far as taking a video to prove the moon really was rising over Taranaki Maunga as portrayed in this photo.

Brendan Larsen

Larsen went as far as taking a video to prove the moon really was rising over Taranaki Maunga as portrayed in this photo.

“Once you learn it’s easy to get it to exactly the same speed as the earth is rotating and exactly same speed as the stars are moving. If you don’t do that, and you take more than a 20 or 30 second shot, you get star trails in the shot.”

Most people won’t notice, but the stars would be oblong shapes not circles, he says.

“If you do a one or two minute shot like I do with the tracker it’s all messy, it’s all like streaks. One thing that makes a good astro photo is having the stars pin point.”

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Google Pixel 4, Pixel 4 XL Review: Smart Phones, Dumb Decisions

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I’m a Pixel fan. While I test a lot of phones, the Pixel range has been my daily driver ever since it launched. With Pixel 4 that’s unlikely to change, this is one of the smartest smartphones you can buy. But for everyone else, a series of truly dumb decisions means I find it almost impossible to recommend to most users. 
Google’s Pixel 4 and Pixel 4 XL – super-smart phones compromises by dumb decisions
Note: this review will cover both the Pixel 4 and Pixel 4 XL, but I will only name them separately when referring to their differences. And there is one huge one in particular. But first…
Design – Beautifully Boring
The second most controversial thing about the Pixel 4 is its design (for the most, jump to the Battery Life section). While the square camera hump on the back has its detractors for being an iPhone 11-wannabe, I think it’s fine. It isn’t as seamlessly integrated into the chassis as the iPhone 11 range but it doesn’t protrude as much, and the matt edges and white and orange finishes feel great in the hand. Just avoid the black, it’s a non-sensically glossy finish and a fingerprint magnet (Dumb Decision #1 – we’re going to be keeping count). 
Pixel 4 has smart, matt edges which add grip and distinctive style (but you’ll put a case on it … [+] anyway)
The front is a different matter with the large top bezel for the new facial recognition system and surprisingly thick bezels on all other sides. This is more iPhone 11 than iPhone 11 Pro (an issue we’ll get to later). There’s also no headphone jack, no front-firing speakers (good news: yet somehow they’re even louder than last year, so well done Google) and the same dual sim (one physical, one eSim) as previously but they actually support dual standby now (finally). 
Google removed the front-firing speakers but, somehow, Pixel 4 speakers sound better than ever
It is a nice looking phone? This polarises opinion. For me, it’s ok though nothing more. Build quality is great, but it looks plain rather than the styling Scandi-minimalism Google seems to shoot for these days and that top bezel is going to be a deal-breaker for some. 
Here are their respective sizes:

Biometrics – Smartly Stupid 
So what do you get for that thick top bezel? A lot of smarts, with less intelligent integration. 
The biggest arrival is facial recognition which is, um… ok. Yes, it’s extremely fast and yes, it’s better than any rival Android phone but it isn’t better than Face ID on the iPhone. It isn’t as secure because it unlocks if your eyes are closed (an update is coming but at launch that’s Dumb Decision #2), it has a slightly narrower field of vision and it doesn’t unlock if it’s close to your face as it might be when you’re in bed. 
Google’s Pixel 4 facial recognition is smart but compromised
Is it better than a fingerprint reader? Not for me. Facial recognition makes unlocking a conscious process (“…and now look at your phone”) which muscle memory means it never is with fingerprint readers and from a usability and security perspective, having both would make a lot more sense. The two have different strengths and weaknesses and combining dual biometrics is painless for important things like banking and mobile payments (touch the fingerprint reader and look at your phone). Apple will bring this to iPhones next year so why not beat Apple for once Google, rather than belatedly follow in its footsteps (headphone jack, dual cameras, Face ID, dual standby sims). 
As for Soli, the smart radar system it’s the perfect example of the Pixel’s smart/dumb problem. The tech itself is stunningly smart. It’s a miniaturised radar which uses proximity awareness speeds up facial unlocking because it knows you’re reaching for the phone. It also lets the display shut off when you’re not near to save battery life (we’ll get to that…). But the air gestures are a mess. They’re both limited in movement (wave left, wave right) and functionality (skip tracks, silence alarms/calls), unreliable and no quicker than a voice command to make the same requests. 
The underlying tech may be great but releasing it in such a dumbed-down manner has led to ridicule and history shows Google would rather kill off things that struggle (see: Killed by Google) than persist with products/services which are poorly received at launch. Releasing Soli in 2019 may have already sealed its fate and, for tech that Google has spent years developing (it was first unveiled in 2015), that’s Dumb Decision #3. 
Display – 90Hz… 90 Hurts
DisplayMate heaped praise on the Pixel 4’s display but I’m not so taken with it. It’s clear, sharp, and has perfect blacks like all OLEDs but – despite being 10% brighter than the Pixel 3 panel – I find it a little washed out and it isn’t as bright as rivals which can be an issue outdoors. It’s also almost impossible to get white to be, well, white unless you’re on maximum brightness. This bugs me. 
Pixel 3 Vs Pixel 4 (right) – whites are rarely white at anything other than maximum brightness on … [+] the Pixel 4
But the headline act is the Pixel 4’s 90Hz refresh rate and, unfortunately, it leads us to Dumb Decision #4: 90Hz only works at a brightness of 75% or more which – using Google’s adaptive brightness – is almost the entire time you’re indoors. Google promises to address this in a fix, but a variable rate would never have been needed in the first place had a larger battery been fitted (Dumb Decision spoiler alert!). 
Tip: enable developer options (Settings >  About Phone – tap repeatedly on Build Number), navigate to Settings >  System > Advanced >  Developer Options and switch Force 90Hz Refresh Rate to On. You’ll take a battery hit, but only about 20 mins of screen-on time, which you’ll get back by putting the phone in Android 10’s new Dark Mode (something everyone should do anyway). 
Performance – Silky Smooth, For Now
With 90Hz forced on, the Pixel 4 is a gloriously smooth device. It’s OnePlus 7T-fast and that’s a serious compliment. Pixels have always been fast out the box, but they have never felt this gloriously slick. It’s the standard every phone should adopt and it’s jarring going back to a 60Hz display, even the Pixel 4’s when I tried it again with the default 90/60Hz variable refresh rate. 
The caveat in all this is Pixels slow down quickly. At least every one to date has. One year on, my Pixel 3 feels painfully slow, taking up to 10 seconds to open the camera, stuttering and stalling when scrolling and generally janking its way through life. 90Hz should eliminate many of these problems (it’s a brute force solution) but I do still fear for the Pixel 4 long term because – Dumb Decision #5 Google under cooked the specs. 
Forcing 90Hz mode on transforms the Pixel 4 experience, for a small battery hit
Sure, 6GB RAM is fine for now but rivals have 8/12GB which gives them greater future-proofing. The Snapdragon 855 is fine but it’s 10 months old, so this phone will spend most of its life a generation behind the main competition and then there’s the superior 855+ which is fitted into cheaper phones like the Asus ROG Phone II, Xiaomi Black Shark 2 Pro, Nubia Z20, Meizu 16s Pro and OnePlus 7T. 
Google wants to compete with smart software optimisation but smart software optimisation shouldn’t be an excuse to make hardware shortcuts. Give us truly top-spec hardware and smart software as well. It isn’t too much to ask at (another spoiler alert) these prices. 
(See speed tests: iPhone 11 Pro Max Vs Pixel 4 compared to iPhone 11 Pro Max Vs Galaxy Note 10+)
Side note: the Pixel 4’s Recorder app is excellent, using more super-smart algorithms to accurately transcribe audio and video in real time. This is a boon for journalists and students, but seems niche for anyone else other than a warring couple. Google has also confirmed it will come to older Pixels.
Cameras – Brilliant But Self Defeating
Do you know what’s the best thing on the Pixel 4? The camera. Do you know what’s going to hurt sales of the Pixel 4 the most? The camera. 
Google Pixel 4 camera discussion is as much about its missing ultra-wide camera as its quality
In news everyone expected, Google has nailed the primary camera. It takes glorious photos with class-leading dynamic range, colour accuracy and detail. Colour balance does get thrown off at times, but a fix is coming.
Google’s Pixel 4 primary camera is glorious with the best dynamic range of any smartphone
As for the new telephoto lens, at 2x it seems modest but – in typical Google style – results over-deliver thanks to software. Google’s ‘Super Res Zoom’ super-smart image processing gives this phone zoom capabilities to compete with the 5x zoom in the Huawei P30 Pro and pinch-to-zoom is no longer what your grandad does wrong when taking photos, it’s how you get a brilliant shot with the Pixel 4. 
Google’s Pixel 4 zoom is a match for any camera on the market
Google’s Pixel 4 Super Res zoom
Pixel 3 zoom results show a noticeable difference
Dumb Decision #6: Google could’ve changed the game with a 5x optical zoom lens and Super Res Zoom but it instead chose to use this software witchcraft to merely align with the best. Unleash this software Google, give it the hardware to dazzle. 
Which brings us to Dumb Decision #7: no ultra-wide camera. Software can’t compensate for this (no, Panorama Mode isn’t the answer) and with the iPhone 11 camera, in particular, being close-enough in almost all shooting situations, the lack of an Ultra-wide will cost Google sales. It’s a completely nonsensical decision and while Google claims a telephoto lens is ‘more useful’ that should be for customers to decide. Personally, I can compensate for zoom by walking closer in most situations but I can’t compensate for an ultra-wide-angle by walking away. That’s why Apple picked ultra-wide not telephoto for the dual-camera iPhone 11. 
Pixel 4 Panorama shot: inherent distortion and stitching show why it is no match for a dedicated … [+] ultrawide lens
A return to the Pixel 4’s smart-smart comes with Astrophotography mode. The phone detects when it’s in night mode (aka Night Sight), completely still (tripod or propped up) and can see the sky. It then actives Astrophography mode, which delivers 2-3 minute long exposures to capture the stars.
The Pixel 4’s Astrophotography mode can take super-long exposures of up to 4 minutes. But will you … [+] use it?
The results are incredible and a real differentiator. Whether you’ll ever use it, however, is another matter entirely. 
Google Pixel 4 night mode looks ok…
…but it is blown away by Astrophotography mode
As for the front camera. It’s good but more limited than last year. Gone is the nice choice between 70 and 120-degree ultra-wide lenses for a single fixed-focus 90-degree lens. Results are an improvement on the Pixel 3 but it also has more distortion (something others have noticed as well – 1, 2). Here is an example: the Pixel 4 takes the better shot but it has lengthened and straightened the roundness of my face while the Pixel 3 gets it right.
Self cameras: Pixel 4 (left) takes a better photo, but Pixel 3 (right) shows my correct face shape
Side note: I read some grumbling about Google fitting a fixed focus camera in the Pixel 4 but it makes sense because selfies have a fairly consistent focus range and it helps the camera take sharp photos in low light where auto-focus lenses can struggle. 
But here’s Dumb Decision #8: video. Just like the ultra-wide lens, Google thought 4K 60fps recording is something we don’t need so it isn’t included (we now know it was pulled at the last minute). Let us be the judge Google.
What we can shoot is 1080p 60fps / 4k 30fps and results are better than last year, but colour reproduction and particularly audio are still far behind the levels achieved by Samsung and Apple. Pixel video has been lagging behind for four generations now, so I can only assume Google has little interest in half its cameras’ functionality. Which is bizarre, to say the least. 
Dumb Decision #9 Google Photos. Google has removed free unlimited, original quality photo and video storage for the Pixel 4. So this is a phone which emphasises its camera capabilities but then compresses the results, unless you take out an additional monthly Google One storage plan (a service which is also unavailable to G Suite users). Hmmmn. 
Battery Life – Dumb Decision #10
And here we reach the dumbest decision Google has made with the Pixel 4 and Pixel 4 XL and it shows the company at its worst: a stubborn refusal to learn from past mistakes. Numbers alone which show you the problem:

Yes, despite the increased demand of their 90Hz displays, Soli radar technology and dual cameras, Google has fitted the Pixel 4 with a smaller battery than both the Pixel 3 and the $399 Pixel 3a XL. This is an astonishing lapse in judgement because Pixel 3 battery life was already poor and only got worse with time. 
Consequently, the Pixel 4 never lasted me a full day for me (read: dead by 4/5pm) and screen-on time rarely passed above 3 hours. This is simply unacceptable in a premium smartphone and a deal-breaking mistake in a year when Apple massively increased battery life so all iPhone 11 models deliver well over 6 hours of screen-on time (the iPhone 11 Pro Max tops 7 hours). For me, this is a recall-level bad decision and I’d suggest Google relaunches the Pixel 4 with a much larger battery.
Pixel 4 battery life is truly awful
As for the Pixel 4 XL, it’s better but still not great. In my experience it mostly lasts a full day (circa 14 hours) and I get about 5 hours of screen-on time. This may be ‘enough’ at purchase but, as the battery degrades, there will be problems in 12-18 months because there’s no margin for drop-off here. 
Google’s battery decisions with the Pixel 4 and Pixel 4 XL are baffling and bone-headed in the worst possible way, given the remarkable intelligence that has gone into so many parts of these phones. 
Pixel 4 XL battery life is considerably better than the Pixel 4, but still far behind rivals
As for charging, it’s solid but unremarkable. Wireless charging is finally Qi-compatible this year at up to 11W, though rivals like Samsung can hit up to 15W. Meanwhile, wired charging is limited to 18W (circa 90 mins for a full charge) which is ok but still off the pace in a year when 45W and even 65W smartphone charging has caught on.
Price and Storage – Too Much For Too Little
Having made the best value smartphones on the planet earlier this year, sadly Pixel 4 and Pixel 4 XL pricing is Dumb Decision #11.  

Yes, both phones are overpriced and under capacity. Samsung made 128GB its entry-level capacity this year and both Samsung and Apple offer phone capacities up to 512GB. Then there’s this:

Whichever way you slice it ($100 cheaper than a 64GB Pixel 4 or 256GB for $50 less than a 64GB Pixel 4 XL), Google’s new phones look poorly priced. Yes, the iPhone 11 Pro and Pro Max cost more but, apart from their OLED displays, the Pixel 4s spec sheets and design (dual cameras, thick bezels, face unlock) tie more closely to the iPhone 11 while having shorter battery life. With Google hoping to ramp up smartphone sales this year, that’s a problem.  
Google’s Pixel 4 and Pixel 4 XL are super smart-phones ruined by dumb decisions
Bottom Line – I’ll Buy It, You Shouldn’t
Google appears to have outsmarted itself with the Pixel 4 and consequently made a lot of dumb decisions. The root of it seems to be a philosophy that its software/machine learning is so smart that the company can afford to cut corners with hardware and convince us it doesn’t matter. It does and, at these prices, it’s unacceptable. Google’s cutting edge software should be the Pixel 4’s differentiator, a special sauce sprinkled on top of cutting edge hardware, not used to compensate for a litany of bad hardware decisions (no ultra-wide camera, an ageing chipset, lower RAM, weak storage options, small battery capacities – are just the main ones). 
And this is extremely frustrating. Specs should be the easy part. The OnePlus 7T and Asus ROG Phone II deliver cutting-edge specs for knockdown prices but they aren’t smart like the Pixel 4 is smart. Google only needed to make its version of these phones and add its superlative software smarts on top to have a huge hit. But that isn’t what we’ve got. 
Instead, we have a glorious camera which will be remembered for not having an ultra-wide lens, a 90Hz display which isn’t on half the time, restrictive storage which forces users to buy Google One subscriptions and chipset and RAM restrictions which suggest – like previous Pixels – these phones won’t age well. What I do love (Astrophotography mode, the potential of Soli and, as a journalist, Recorder) are niche features which don’t compensate for the everyday flexibility of a third lens and a big, fat battery. 
So who would buy a Pixel 4? Well, me actually. I love stock Android, I want the absolute best camera in most shooting conditions (I’ll use Astrophotograpy mode) and a 90Hz display which I can afford to force on all the time because I am able to charge my phone regularly throughout the day. The Pixel 4 is still a write-off, but the Pixel 4 XL is just about the best phone for me. 
If this sounds like you, great. Go buy one*. For everyone else, stay away. 
___
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(*wait for Black Friday sales. You’ll save $200-300 off the price.)
More On Forbes
Google Pixel 3a Review: The Best Smartphone Under $500
iPhone 11 Vs iPhone 11 Pro: What’s The Difference?
Galaxy Note 10 Vs Galaxy Note 10 Plus: What’s The Difference?

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Townsville Astrophotography Workshop Tickets, Thu 10/08/2023 at 4:30 pm

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Join us along with Joel from Tasco (Sky-Watcher Ambassador) and Margaret from Canon Australia for a night of Astrophotography.

Joel will be providing his knowledge on taking night time milky way photos as well as providing 2 demo units being the Sky-Watcher Adventurer 2i Pro & Star Adventurer Mini Pro to do some tracking.

This will be a Canon sponsored event, where there will be Canon mirrorless gear to loan out if you don’t already currently use the system. If you do already shoot with a Canon camera feel free to bring that along! 🙂

ONLY LIMITED SPOTS AVAILABLE SO BE QUICK TO BOOK YOUR TICKET!

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The July new moon offers dark skies to see 5 visible planets tonight

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 July 17, 2023 at 18:32 GMT - A New Moon hangs in a dark sky above the sun

July 17, 2023 at 18:32 GMT – A New Moon hangs in a dark sky above the sun

The new moon arrives on July 17, at 2:32 p.m. Eastern Time (1832 UTC), according to the U.S. Naval Observatory, two days before the waxing moon makes a close pass to Mercury.

New moons occur when the moon is directly between the sun and Earth. Technically, the sun and moon are in conjunction, on the same north-south line that passes through the celestial pole, near the star Polaris. Lunar phases’ timing depends on the moon’s location relative to the Earth, so they occur at the same time all over the world, with the hour changing according to one’s time zone: for Chicagoans the new moon is at 1:32 p.m. local time, while in Paris it is at 8:32 p.m., and in Tokyo it is at 3:32 a.m. July 18, and in Melbourne, Australia it is at 4:32 a.m. July 18.

New moons are not visible unless there is an eclipse; eclipses don’t happen every new moon because the orbit of the moon is tilted by about 5 degrees relative to the plane of the Earth’s orbit, and the point where the orbits intersect, called a node, moves relative to the Earth’s surface. That means the moon’s shadow “misses” the Earth most of the time. (The next solar eclipse is October 14, 2023).

Related: New moon calendar 2023: When is the next new moon?

If you are hoping to catch a closer look at the moon or anything else in the night sky, our guides to the best telescopes and best binoculars are a great place to start.

And if you want to try your hand at photographing the moon and/or the night sky in general, check out our guide on how to photograph the moon, as well as our best cameras for astrophotography and best lenses for astrophotography.

Close passes to planets

TOP TELESCOPE PICK:

A Celestron telescope on a white background

A Celestron telescope on a white background

Looking for a telescope to see visible planets in the night sky? We recommend the Celestron Astro Fi 102 as the top pick in our best beginner’s telescope guide.

On July 19, the moon will pass by Mercury as it emerges from the solar glare and becomes a thin crescent; the conjunction with the innermost planet will occur at 0857 UTC, or 4:37 a.m. in New York City. Neither the moon nor Mercury rises until after that, however – both rise at about 7:10 a.m. in New York according to In-the-Sky.org.

The moon will still be in close proximity to the sun; while it is possible, if challenging, to observe It during the day, that can be a dangerous thing to attempt – looking for objects near the sun with even modest optical aids can result in permanent eye damage and even blindness. It is far better to wait until sunset, which is at 8:23 p.m. local time in New York. At that point, the moon will be to the left of Mercury and above it; one can use the thin crescent, whose “horns” will be pointed away from the sun, to orient towards Mercury.

July 19, 2023 at 845 pm - Crescent Moon above Venus and Mercury, depicted in a hazy red sky

July 19, 2023 at 845 pm – Crescent Moon above Venus and Mercury, depicted in a hazy red sky

One will also see a bright planet to the left of the moon; that will be Venus, which is usually one of the very first objects to be visible in the sky as it gets darker. Mercury will still be hard to see; at sunset it is only about 9 degrees above the western horizon and the Sun is still likely to wash it out; the planet will only be about 4 degrees high by 9 p.m. local time when it should be just visible, but you will need a horizon that is relatively flat with no obstructions.

Spotting Mercury is somewhat easier as one moves to lower latitudes. As one moves closer to the equator (either from the north or south pole) the ecliptic – the plane of the Earth’s orbit projected on the sky – makes a steeper angle with the horizon. That means planets, which all move within a few degrees of the ecliptic, tend to reach higher altitudes. From Miami, for example, the conjunction occurs at the same hour (4:37 a.m.) as in New York City, but the sun sets slightly earlier, at 8:13 p.m. (Eastern Daylight Time) on July 19 and at that point Mercury is about 14 degrees high in the west, with the moon appearing about 5 degrees almost directly above it. About a half hour after sunset Mercury is about 7 degrees high and thus easier to spot than in New York.

From San Juan, Puerto Rico, the sun sets at 7:03 p.m. local time, when Mercury is 16 degrees high; Mercury is still 10 degrees above the western horizon by 7:30 p.m., with the moon directly above it and Venus to the left of both.

Southern Hemisphere observers will be able to see the pair earlier in the evening, as the days are shorter there (it being winter). From Buenos Aires, where the conjunction occurs at 5:57 a.m. local time, the sun sets at 6:03 p.m. on July 19, the moon will be 16 degrees high in the northwest, with Mercury a degree lower and to the left of the moon; Mercury will still be at 10 degrees by 6:30 p.m., before it sets at 7:33 p.m. local time.

Visible planets

While the two-day-old moon will pass Mercury, on the night of the new moon (July 17) with some luck and a flat horizon one can catch all five naked-eye planets over the course of the night. Mercury, for example, will be just visible in mid-northern latitudes after sunset, though without the moon to orient one might find it harder to see. For example, sunset in New York is at 8:24 p.m. and by the start of Nautical Twilight (when the sun reaches 6 degrees below the horizon) at 8:56 p.m. Mercury is only about 5 degrees above the horizon in the west.

Venus will be to the left, but it is much easier to see as it is about 4 degrees higher and some 45 times brighter than Mercury. Venus sets at 9:27 p.m. in New York; times will be similar in cities like Chicago, Columbus, Boulder, Colo., and Sacramento. Mars, meanwhile, will appear to the left of and above Venus; at sunset the planet is about 19 degrees high and sets at about 10:22 p.m. in New York. By about 9 p.m. local time one should be able to see Venus and Mars as a pair low in the west.

Saturn rises at 10:23 p.m., followed by Jupiter at 12:58 a.m. July 18. Both Saturn and Jupiter are in faint constellations; Saturn is in Aquarius and Jupiter in Aries, which means both will stand out – from most city locations (where the light pollution makes the sky background brighter) the two planets will be the easiest objects to see in their respective regions. Saturn reaches its maximum altitude at 3:52 a.m. and is about 39 degrees above the southern horizon; Jupiter doesn’t reach its maximum until after sunrise, but by 4:30 a.m. it will be about 39 degrees high in the east.

saturn, its rings and three moons stand out against the blackness of space in this james webb space telescope photo

saturn, its rings and three moons stand out against the blackness of space in this james webb space telescope photo

For the Southern Hemisphere’s mid-latitudes, the “evening stars” Mercury, Venus and Mars will be “flipped” with Venus almost directly above Mercury and slightly to the right, with Mars above Venus and to the right. For example from Melbourne, Australia, the new moon occurs July 18, and the sun sets at 5:21 p.m. local time. Mercury is 13 degrees above the northwestern horizon; by the end of civil twilight at 5:49 p.m. it is still about 9 degrees high.

Venus will still be 23 degrees above the horizon – the planet sets at 8:07 p.m. local time. Mars sets at 8:34 p.m. and is some 4 degrees above Venus. As Mars sets, Saturn rises, at 8:35 p.m., and Jupiter rises t 1:58 a.m. July 19. Both planets will be much higher in the sky than in the Northern Hemisphere; when Jupiter rises Saturn will b a full 62 degrees high above the northern horizon, reaching 63 degrees at 3:10 a.m. local time. Jupiter reaches an altitude of 37 degrees just before sunrise at 7:14 a.m. (the sun rises at 7:31 a.m. July 19).

Summer stars

For Northern Hemisphere skywatchers, July is the time for summer constellations. By 10 p.m. the Summer Triangle is high in the eastern sky; the “top” star is Vega, the brightest star in Lyra the Lyre, and it is almost at the zenith (about 68 degrees above the horizon). The other two stars in the Summer triangle are Deneb and Altair. Deneb is the brightest among a cross-shaped group of stars known as the Northern Cross; this is the backbone and wings of Cygnus, the Swan. Deneb marks the Swan’s tail – the very name means “tail” in Arabic (the word appears in similar names or other stars, such as Denebola, which is the tail of Leo the Lion). At about 10 p.m. Deneb will be to the left of and below Vega. Altair is the brightest star in Aquila, the Eagle, and is sometimes called its eye, with two fainter stars on either side of it marking the bird’s head. Altair will be to the right of Vega and below (south) of it; it’s the southernmost star in the Triangle and the last to rise. Deneb, Altair and Vega make a rough right triangle with Altair at the southern end.

July 22, 2023 at 9:30 pm - The Summer Triangle, Vega, Altair and Deneb, form a triangle in the starry night sky, surrounded by outlined constellations

July 22, 2023 at 9:30 pm – The Summer Triangle, Vega, Altair and Deneb, form a triangle in the starry night sky, surrounded by outlined constellations

Looking north (again at about 10 p.m. from mid-northern latitudes) one will see the Big Dipper to the left (west) of Polaris, the pole star. Following the “pointers” (the two stars in the front of the bowl of the Dipper, called Dubhe and Merak) to Polaris and continuing straight across you encounter Cepheus, the king, and just below Cepheus is the “W” shape of Cassiopeia; if one imagines the sky as a giant clock face, the Big Dipper is at 9 o’clock, Cepheus at about 3 o’clock and Cassiopeia at about the 4 o’clock position.

In the other direction, one can follow the handle of the big dipper and “arc to Arcturus” the brightest star in Boötes, the Herdsman, and continuing downward you hit Spica, the brightest star in Virgo, which will be in the southwest. Turning south (left), one sees the bright red star Antares, the heart of Scorpius, the Scorpion. Antares is relatively low in the sky; it won’t get more than 22 degrees high at the latitude of New York City.

That said, with a horizon free of obstructions one can see a curved string of stars extending from Antares down and to the left; this is the scorpion’s body and tail. In darker sky locations looking above (north) from Scorpio one can see a tall, thin, trapezoid of stars, which is the body of Ophiuchus, the Healer. To the left of Scorpius is a “teapot” shape of stars, this is Sagittarius the Archer (often rendered as a Centaur with a bow). Sagittarius is one of the southernmost constellations of the zodiac; from London (about 50 degrees north) it barely clears the horizon; from Stockholm only a few stars can be seen at all.

Moving back to Boötes, if one looks just above Arcturus, one can spot a rough pentagon of stars that is the Herdsman’s body or head (this depends a bit on the visualization one chooses). Just to the left of that is a medium bright star that is a medium-bright star called Alphecca; and it is part of a semicircle of stars that is Corona Borealis, the Northern Crown.

In the mid-southern latitudes, the sun sets earlier (it being austral winter) and by 7 p.m. the sky is dark and the Southern Cross is in the southwest – a full 61 degrees high. If one is facing south, to the left of the Cross (eastward) is Alpha Centauri, our nearest stellar neighbor, right next to Hadar (which is to the right, between Alpha Centauri and the Cross). Turning one’s gaze towards the horizon in the southwest, just about 13 degrees high is Canopus, one of the brightest stars in the sky. Canopus is also known as Alpha Carinae, as it is the alpha star of Carina, the Ship’s Keel. Looking just upwards is the large oval of stars that makes up Vela, the Sail – if one draws a line between Canopus and the Cross Vela is on the right side of the line.

RELATED STORIES:

— Why Do We Call It the ‘Summer’ Triangle?

— The moon: Everything you need to know about Earth’s companion

— Night sky, July 2023: What you can see tonight [maps]

If one turns eastwards from Alpha Centauri and Hadar one runs into Antares; from the southern skies the Scorpion is “upside down” but the constellation itself is much higher in the sky than from the Northern Hemisphere – Antares is about 61 degrees up from the latitude of Melbourne, Australia.  If one follows the “hook” that is formed by the Scorpion’s body (this will trace a path roughly southeast) one encounters Sagittarius, which is about halfway to the horizon.

Next to Sagittarius on the right (west) is a fainter semicircle of stars that is Corona Australis, the Southern Crown. Further east the constellations are fainter – in a city location it is just possible to see Pavo, the Peacock, and to the right Octans, the Octant, which is near the Southern Celestial Pole; unlike the Northern Hemisphere there is no “pole star.” However, one can find the southern pole by using the Southern Cross; the long part of the Cross always points towards the pole, if not exactly, roughly five “cross lengths” away.

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Google Pixel 7 review: A great pocket astrophotography camera

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The Google Pixel 7 takes over from the Pixel 6 as Google’s second iteration of smartphones to house their home-made Google Tensor chip but this time in the form of the newly developed G2 chip which it rates as faster, more efficient and more secure.

We don’t typically cover phones here on Live Science, but we do love our astrophotography cameras and the Google Pixel 7 is positioned as a great alternative to a dedicated astro camera, so we had to check it out.

Google Pixel 7 specs:

Dimensions: 6.1 x 2.9  x 0.3 inches (155.6 x 73.2 x 8.7 mm)
Weight: 6.9 oz (197 g)
Display size: 6.3-in (160.5-mm), 20:9 aspect ratio
Display resolution: FHD+ (1080 x 2400) OLED at 416 PPI
Camera: Rear 50MP f/1.85, Ultra-wide 12MP f/2.2, Front 10.8MP f/2.2
RAM: 8 GB LPDDR5 
Internal memory: 8 GB LPDDR5
OS: Android
CPU: Google Tensor G2
Battery capacity: Minimum 4270 mAh, Typical 4355 mAh

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Best camera for astrophotography in 2023

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If you’re planning to shoot the night skies, you’ll need the best camera for astrophotography. Tim Coleman and the AP team make some picks.

Finding the best camera for astrophotography can be a complex matter. Night-sky photography is a tricky discipline. It requires a lot of standing around in cold fields late into the night, not to mention precise exposure calculation and a fair amount of post-capture editing. It’s a fair bit more complicated than pointing and shooting, that’s for sure.

However, if you have the patience, the rewards for astrophotography can be nothing short of spectacular. Using a camera to document the splendour of the night sky is incredibly rewarding, not to mention addictive. In this guide, we’ll help you find the camera that will allow you to get started shooting the stars.

We have a complete essential guide to astrophotography and night photography, if you would like to know more of the ins and outs of how it works – whereas here, we are focusing on cameras. First up, let’s look at the key factors when choosing a camera for astrophotography.

How to choose the best camera for astrophotography

Ideally, your camera in hand will be weather-sealed, easy to navigate in the dark and even operate with gloved hands. Some high-end cameras feature illuminated buttons which can prove useful, but more importantly you’ll need a way to obtain sharp focusing.

Autofocus is less helpful for astrophotography and most well-practiced astrophotographers use manual focus with live view magnification to be sure, edging a fraction close than infinity to get those white blobs in the sky as small (sharp) as possible. However, there are some cameras that make this easier for you, so have a look at cameras with Starry Sky AF.

You’ll want to attach a fast aperture, wide-angle lens to the camera in order to maximise image brightness and capture the night sky in its glory, plus shoot at a relatively high ISO and ideally in RAW format. A full-frame camera will, in general, perform better in low light than APS-C and Micro Four Thirds cameras, plus there are more full-frame wide angle lenses to choose from than APS-C ones. For additional suggestions, check out our guide to the best lenses for astrophotography.

Otherwise, there’s a balance to strike between high-resolution for large-scale pictures, and lower resolution for superior low-light image quality – a general rule of thumb for cameras of a similar age. A resolution in the region of 20-30MP is popular.

DSLRs remain the most popular camera type for astrophotography, though mirrorless cameras do have a few advantageous features, which we’ll cover in detail below. Along these lines, we’ve put together the best cameras from the big brands for astrophotography, including budget second-hand options and some with some dedicated astrophotography features that you may well have never heard of before.

Still trying to decide between DSLR and mirrorless? Have a look at our guide to DSLR vs Mirrorless.


If you’re in a hurry, here’s a quick list of our picks of the best astrophotography cameras, as well as links for where the get a great price on each one:

Read on to find out more about each camera in our full list…


Our picks of the best cameras for astrophotography:

Best Pentax camera for astrophotography: Pentax K-1 II

Pentax K-1 II Full-frame DSLR

Pentax K-1 II Full-frame DSLR

At a glance

  • 36.4MP full-frame sensor
  • ISO 100-819,200
  • 5-axis shake-reduction
  • GPS with Astrotracer
  • Illuminated buttons
  • Price: $1,796 / £1,899

Everything about the Pentax K1-II is perfectly suited to low light workings. It’s a rugged, weather-resistant DSLR with vari-angle screen and illuminated buttons. It’s also a high-resolution 36.4MP full-frame stills-shooter boasting excellent dynamic range and low light performance. But there’s more to the K-1 II that makes it a top choice for astrophotography.

Pentax ingeniously paired sensor-based shake reduction and GPS to create a feature it calls Astrotracer. Astrotracer utilises GPS data to match the position of the stars in the sky and shift the camera sensor to counter for the Earth’s rotation accordingly, and therefore keep those stars nice and sharp rather than trailing. Simply put, no other camera feature designed for astrophotography can maximise image brightness and clarity better than Astrotracer.

The K1-II represented a modest update from the original Pentax K-1 which will also give you everything you need for astrophotography, including Astrotracer, for half the price. If there’s one common point of weakness, it’s limited choice of wide-angle lenses.

For more options have a look at the best Pentax DSLRs.

Pros:

  • Powerful Astrotracer functionality
  • Rugged DSLR build
  • Good price for full frame

Cons:

  • Cheaper K-1 offers similar proposition
  • Limited wide-angle lens selection

Best Olympus camera for astrophotography: OM System OM-1

The OM-1 has Starry Sky AF - perfect for astrophotography - Andrew Fusek Peters with the Olympus OM-1

The OM-1 has Starry Sky AF – perfect for astrophotography – Andrew Fusek Peters with the Olympus OM-1

At a glance

  • 20MP stacked Micro Four Thirds sensor
  • Stabilisation up to 8 stops
  • IP53-rated weather-proofing
  • Starry Sky AF
  • Price: $2,199 / £1,999

The flagship OM System OM-1 offers photographers the best low-light image quality capability of any Micro Four Thirds camera, and some clever features that aid astrophotography to boot. Most astrophotographers go slow and steady with manual focus and tripods, but the latest and greatest tech in the OM System OM-1 camera makes other methods possible, including Starry Sky AF.

Starry sky taken with the Olympus OM-1 with Starry Sky AF (Crop)

Starry sky taken with the Olympus OM-1 with Starry Sky AF (Crop, photo: Joshua Waller)

Having made its debut in the E-M1 III, Starry Sky AF uses an algorithm to scan the scene for small points of light (the stars) to acquire focus. It’s night sky focusing made easy, and crucially we’ve found the mode entirely reliable in both speed and accuracy.

Otherwise, you have all you need for night-time adventures; an IP53-rated weather-proofed body, vari-angle touchscreen and the best image stabilisation around. And let’s not forget how much smaller and lighter the Micro Four Thirds system is compared to full-frame – those excellent wide-angle lenses come in at a fraction of the heft. Pixel peep and low light image quality won’t quite compare with full-frame cameras, though.

The OM System OM-5 also includes Starry Sky AF, and IP53 weather-sealing, so is another more-affordable option well worth looking at. 

Pros:

  • Starry sky AF and stabilisation makes hand-held astro shooting possible
  • IP53 weatherproofing
  • Small and light system

Cons:

  • Raw sensor quality falls short of alternatives

Read our OM System Olympus OM-1 review


Best Canon camera for astrophotography: Canon EOS R6

Best cameras for low-light, Canon EOS R6

The advanced AF system on the EOS R6 works in very low light. Photo credit: Andy Westlake

At a glance

  • 20MP full-frame sensor
  • ISO 50-204,800 (extended)
  • 3in fully articulated touchscreen
  • 3.69m-dot EVF, 0.76x magnification
  • Price: $2,000 / £1,899 (used)

Arriving alongside the flashy Canon EOS R5 and its 45MP sensor, the EOS R6 was pitched as more of an enthusiast all-rounder, with a more modest resolution of 20MP. This makes it an excellent choice for our purposes as astrophotographers, as we don’t have too many pixels increasing the noise on the sensor. Indeed, the EOS R6 is very good in low light, controlling noise well even at higher ISO settings. It’s comparable to two of the most all-time popular cameras for astrophotography, the Canon EOS 6D and EOS 6D Mark II DSLRs, though the EOS R6 is perhaps even better for recovering detail from shadows.

Battery life on the EOS R6 is okay-ish, CIPA-rated to 380 shots per change, though it can be USB-charged, which softens the blow somewhat. Some astrophotographers may have liked a top LCD screen to better keep an eye on battery levels, but that’s a small thing really. The RF lens-mount is expanding nicely too with impressive wide-angles like the RF 15-35mm f/2.8L IS USM. We’d like to see Canon open the mount up to third-party manufacturers, but they’re still being draconian about this for now. Ah well.

Canon has since released a successor to this camera in the form of the Canon EOS R6 Mark II, and the original R6 has been accordingly discontinued. However, the main updates in the Mark II are in its autofocus, which astro shooters don’t need to bother about too much, so we’re recommending you save yourself some cash and pick up one of the many EOS R6 cameras available on the second-hand market.

Pros:

  • Very good low-light performance
  • Good second-hand price

Cons:

  • No top LCD
  • Battery life isn’t amazig

Read our Canon EOS R6 review.


Best Nikon camera for astrophotography: Nikon D780

Nikon D780 - Photo: Michael Topham / AP

The Nikon D780 is an advanced, capable DSLR. Photo credit: Michael Topham

At a glance

  • 24.5MP full-frame sensor
  • ISO 100-51,200
  • 2.36m-dot tilt screen
  • AF sensitivity -7EV
  • Price: $2,196 / £2,299

Replacing the D750, the Nikon D780 boasts an excellent low light performance thanks to its 24MP full-frame sensor and ISO 100-51,200 sensitivity. Nikon’s most ‘modern’ DSLR, the D780 offers clear live view on its large 3.2in tilt screen with a 23x manual focus magnification, in-camera 4K time lapse, shutter speeds up to 900 seconds and a robust interval shooting experience and exposure smoothing, ideal for creating star trails.

You also get DSLR sturdiness with weather-sealed body, excellent battery life and an optical viewfinder with 100% coverage. It’s a shame that illuminated buttons are missing since you get them on the D850, but otherwise this is a highly capable astrophotography camera benefitting from the extensive choice of Nikon F-mount lenses.

With the same sensor and many common strengths, the original mirrorless Nikon Z6 is a solid alternative for a much lower price.

Pros:

  • Does great in low light
  • Expansive F-mount lens selection
  • Ruggedly weather-sealed

Cons:

Read our Nikon D780 review


Best Fujifilm camera for astrophotography: Fujifilm X-T5

Fujifilm X-T5 review

Fujifilm X-T5 review. Image credit: Andy Westlake

At a glance

  • 40MP APS-C sensor
  • 1.84m-dot 3-way tilting screen
  • Exposure dials
  • 3.69m-dot OLED EVF with 0.8x magnification
  • 7EV stabilisation
  • Price: $1,699 / £1,699

A gorgeous mirrorless camera designed for stills photographers first, the Fujifilm X-T5 offers a lot to the astrophotographer. Its on-body controls are intuitive to use, its beefy 7-stop stabilisation system impresses, and it delivers pretty impressive battery life of up to 740 shots per charge (you can of course expect this to drop a bit if you’re repeatedly shooting extra-long exposures). Image quality from the X-T5 is dazzling thanks to its 40.2MP APS-C X-Trans CMOS 5 HR sensor, which is the same model as on the more expensive Fujifilm X-H2.

Choosing a Fujifilm X body as your astrophotography camera also has a distinct advantage, namely the X-mount lens range. This is not the most expansive selection of lenses on the block, but it is absolutely stuffed with super-sharp large-aperture zooms and primes that are absolutely perfect for astro work. We recommend the XF 8-16mm f/2.8 R LM WR as a good starting point.

If the X-T5 is too pricey for you, it could be worth hunting down its predecessor, the X-T4, which also has delightful on-body controls and a high-quality APS-C sensor. Its resolution and stabilisation lag behind the X-T5’s, but otherwise it’s a highly compelling alternative that could potentially be picked up at a significant discount on the used market.

Pros:

  • Fantastic handling
  • Very good body life
  • Gorgeous image quality

Cons:

  • Resolution on the high side for astro
  • Expensive for APS-C

Best Sony camera for astrophotography: Sony A7 IV

Sony Alpha A7 IV in use, and tested by Andy Westlake

Sony Alpha A7 IV in use, tested by Andy Westlake

At a glance

  • 33MP full-frame sensor
  • ISO 100-51,200
  • 1.44m-dot vari-angle screen
  • 5-axis image stabilisation
  • Price: $2,498 / £2,399

Sony’s all-rounder series, the original A7 is now in its fourth iteration and the A7 IV represents a solid option for astrophotography. The 33MP full-frame sensor strikes an optimum resolution balance for large and clean night images, with an excellent dynamic range and shadow detail recovery – a key concern for dark sky snappers.

Handling wise, all boxes are ticked; there’s the 3in vari-angle screen, weather-resistance and image stabilisation. And despite its small stature, making your way around the camera in the dark is done easily enough thanks to the large controls.

If you’re priced out of the A7 IV, the A7 III can be had for about 60% of the cost, and is a decent alternative because its low light image quality is equally impressive.

Pros:

  • Optimal sensor size/resolution balance for astrophotography
  • Good, tactile handling
  • Weather-resistant body

Cons:

  • On the expensive side
  • No in-camera Raw conversion

Read our review of the Sony Alpha A7 IV


Best Panasonic camera for astrophotography: Panasonic Lumix S5

Panasonic Lumix S5 - 24MP full-frame mirrorless camera, MT

Panasonic Lumix S5 – 24MP full-frame camera tested by Michael Topham / AP

At a glance

  • 24.2MP full-frame sensor
  • 1.84m-dot vari-angle screen
  • Weather-resistant
  • Dedicated timelapse mode
  • Price: $1,697 / £1,599

If you’re starting out in astrophotography and have no ties to other camera brands, then the Panasonic Lumix S5 is worth looking into. It’s a brilliant all-rounder with very competitive price tag to boot and particularly good deals can be found. For the modest outlay you get a compact and tough full-frame mirrorless camera with excellent low light image quality.

For almost every perceived ‘flaw’, there is an answer. Battery life is OK, but the S5 can be charged via USB while in use. The EVF isn’t the best in town, but the vari-angle touch screen provides clear viewing. Lens choice is limited compared to DSLRs, but there is the wider-than-normal and affordable 20-60mm full-frame kit lens, the excellent 16-35mm F4 lens and further lens options available from Sigma and Leica. Being a Panasonic, the video features are extensive too, with a dedicated timelapse mode on the drive mode dial.

Panasonic has since released a pretty excellent update in the form of the Lumix S5 II, where the big headline addition was phase-detection autofocus, as well as unlimited video recording times. Astrophotographers can probably save themselves some cash by sticking with the original Lumix S5, whose big sensor and ISO range are more or less the same.

Pros:

  • Good price for full-frame mirrorless
  • USB charging
  • Great kit lenses

Cons:

  • Fewer overall lens options in L-mount system

Read our Panasonic Lumix S5 review


Best camera under £1000 for astrophotography: Pentax K-70

Pentax K-70 DSLR with green bg

Pentax K-70 DSLR

At a glance

  • 24MP APS-C sensor
  • Astrotracer (needs GPS unit)
  • Shake reduction
  • Weather-sealed
  • Price: $576 / £699

Bang for buck, the Pentax K-70 is undisputed for astrophotographers. It packs many pro-feeling features despite being positioned as an enthusiast camera with a modest $576 / £699 body only price. Headline features include a 24MP APS-C sensor with ludicrous ISO 100-102,400 sensitivity, weather-resistant body operable down to -10°C (unusual for this level of camera), optical viewfinder with 100% coverage (again, unusual), vari-angle screen, shake reduction up to 4.5EV and access to features like Astrotracer via an optional GPS unit.

There are also the little things to be found here that experienced astrophotographers will appreciate, like the comfortable grip and well-spaced controls that are easy to operate even for gloved hands. This is a camera tailor-made for the outdoors and photographing the night skies. There’s even a “night mode” LCD setting to make it easier to use in low-light.

Pros:

  • Very impressive high-ISO performance
  • Hardy, weather-resistant body
  • Option to attach GPS Astrotracer unit

Cons:

  • Live View is slow and awkward
  • No touchscreen

Read our Pentax K-70 review


Best camera under £500 for astrophotography: Canon EOS 6D

Canon EOS 6D full-frame DSLR with dark background (AP image)

Canon EOS 6D full-frame DSLR with dark background (AP)

At a glance

  • 20.2MP full-frame sensor
  • ISO 100-25,600
  • AF sensitivity -3EV
  • Built-in GPS
  • Used price approx. $399 / £399

If you look into the camera of choice for Astronomy Photographer of the year entrants, there’s one camera that pops up again and again, year after year: the Canon EOS 6D. It’s a 10-year old camera (from 2012) that proves you don’t need the latest and greatest kit to create award-winning astrophotography pictures. What makes the EOS 6D so popular? Perhaps it’s the 20MP full-frame sensor and ISO 100-25,600 sensitivity that performs really well in low-light. Or maybe it’s the excellent choice of EF-mount wide-angle, fast aperture lenses.

Now superseded by the Canon EOS 6D II which boasts a higher 26MP resolution and modern conveniences such as a vari-angle screen, image stabilisation and 4K timelapse, a second-hand EOS 6D can be had for anything between 250-500 depending on the condition. Absolute bargain.

Pros:

  • Fantastic second-hand price
  • Loads of EF-mount lenses
  • Very good low-light performance

Cons:

  • No stabilisation
  • Fixed LCD screen

Read our Canon EOS 6D Review


Best dedicated camera for astrophotography: Nikon D810a

Nikon D810A - designed specifically for astrophotography

Nikon D810A – designed specifically for astrophotography

At a glance

  • 36.3MP full-frame sensor
  • ISO 200-12,800
  • H-alpha ‘astro’ filter
  • Sensitive to 656nm wavelength
  • Used price approx. $2,700 / £2,700

The Nikon D810a is a modified version of the 36.3MP full-frame D810, made specifically with astrophotography in mind. The ‘a’ denotes astrophotography and tells us that the filter in front of the sensor allows H-alpha emissions, also known as an infrared cut filter. What you get is a camera 4x more sensitive to the hydrogen-alpha wavelength, bringing out the true clarity and colours of the night sky.

Now discontinued, you’ll need some luck finding a D810a on the second-hand market, but they do appear now and again, from around $2400-2800 (with similar prices in £GBP). Canon also produced its own mirrorless astro-converted camera, the Canon EOS Ra. However, it has long since been discontinued, and frankly, good luck finding one.

Pros:

  • Dedicated astrophotography camera
  • Superb full-frame quality

Cons:

  • Tricky to find, and pricey when you do

Find out how Goran Strand uses the Nikon D810A.

An alternative to buying a camera dedicated to astrophotography, a service like www.lifepixel.com can convert a regular camera by replacing the standard low-pass filter with one that allows H-alpha emissions. Conversion could breathe new life into a camera otherwise gathering dust, or you could pick up a second-hand DSLR specifically for modification at a much lower price than a dedicated one.


Text by Tim Coleman, with contributions from Jon Stapley.


Once you had a look at the different camera options, you’ll find some great tips on our guide on how to photograph the night sky as well as more articles on astrophotography.


Follow AP on Facebook, Twitter, Instagram, and YouTube.



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Nothing Phone (2) review: One of the coolest phones of the year

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I’ve been using the Nothing Phone (2) for the past few weeks, and I’m wildly impressed.

You may have heard of Nothing, the startup that launched in 2021 with big ambitions about the future of technology and design. The company, founded by Carl Pei (who also co-founded OnePlus), focuses on unique design and well-rounded feature sets for each of its products, while letting the technology fade into the background. That began with wireless earbuds (the recent Nothing Ear (2) are quite good) and later carried over to phones, starting with the Phone (1).

That device launched internationally and was never intended for the United States. It was a mid-ranger that received decent reception from reviewers, but it couldn’t garner much hype in the West simply because you couldn’t buy it.

Now we have the Phone (2), which is officially available in the United States through Nothing’s website. The company is taking things up a few notches. Its design has been refined, the specs are much more powerful, the cameras have been revamped and — best of all — it starts at $599.

I’ve been testing it for the past few weeks, comparing it to my Pixel 7 Pro and iPhone 14 Pro Max. I wanted to see if it could hold up against the big dogs, despite it being from a company with zero experience selling a phone in the U.S. And beyond some important issues that come with every new company, they hit it out of the park.

So, what is it like to use? Let’s find out.

Nothing Phone 2 product card

If you’re looking for an affordable Android phone that stands out from the pack — while also offering excellent performance and cameras for the price — the Nothing Phone (2) belongs on your radar.

The Phone (2) looks a lot like the Phone (1) with its flat sides and transparent glass backplate. However, it’s still a wildly unique smartphone compared to the rest of the market. No other phone looks like the Phone (2), especially in the United States where the only interesting phone designs are ones that fold in half. Nothing has given the standard brick smartphone a much-needed face lift, and I’m here for it.

Admittedly, the Phone (2) looks like an iPhone 14 Plus when the screen is off. The flat sides further aid in the illusion, but I don’t think this is a big deal. I’m a huge proponent of flat sides on smartphones, thanks to their more premium feel, so I’m glad Nothing kept them around for its second generation.

Nothing Phone (2) CNN-7

Nothing uses pillowed glass on the back with gentle curves, which makes it a very comfortable device to pick up and use for hours on end. That’s also thanks to its weight. At 201 grams, it’s lighter than the Pixel 7 Pro (212 grams) and iPhone 14 Pro Max (240 grams) but a tad heavier than the Galaxy S23 Plus (196 grams). It hits a sweet spot I can only describe as “premium-ly light,” where it’s not too light to feel cheap and not too heavy to be unpleasant.

Of course, the boldest design choice Nothing has made with the Phone (2) is the Glyph Interface, which is a fancy name for all the LEDs on the back.

So, what does the Glyph Interface do? A lot, actually. Flip the phone on its face and it’ll silence sounds and vibrations, alerting you of new notifications with unique light patterns. You can use custom light patterns for specific contacts when they message or call you, and you can force the top right corner Glyph to remain lit up when an important notification arrives.

The Glyph Interface also works as a flashlight, a fill light for photos and even as a light show for your music through a neat hack. A lot of this was available on Phone (1), and with Phone (2), Nothing wanted to improve things by increasing the number of LEDs and LED segments.

This allows for more precision and accurate representations of certain features, like volume. Now, when you increase or decrease the volume of the device, the Glyph will light up and let you know how high or low it is. This same functionality also works for timers (perfect for avid enthusiasts of the pomodoro method) and even third-party apps like Uber for tracking your ride’s distance from your location.

Nothing Phone (2) CNN-17

There’s a lot of versatility in the Glyph Interface, with a little something for everyone. It all works really well, although I didn’t get a chance to test the Uber integration. My favorite features include the persistent LED for important notifications, the light show and Glyph Composer for fun light shows at night and the neat charging indicator at the bottom for checking how full my battery is.

Is any of this necessary? No, I don’t think so. But it does encourage you to use your phone a little less to stay on top of things. A quick glance at whatever is making the phone light up will tell you whether to pick it up while everything else can be ignored. I didn’t find it distracting or difficult to get on board with, either; something about it felt very natural, which is all you can ask for from a feature like this.

It’s not life-changing, but it’s a very cool addition to this already unique smartphone. Just make sure you pick up a screen protector for it since you’ll be laying your phone face down far more often than not.

Flip the Phone (2) around and you’ll be greeted with its 6.7-inch display. It features a 2412 x 1080 resolution that keeps everything nice and sharp, an OLED panel for inky black levels and vibrant colors, and a peak brightness of 1,600 nits, which makes it easy to see even in direct sunlight.

Nothing Phone (2) CNN-1

Nothing also includes a 120Hz refresh rate, which makes the screen feel smooth and responsive. It’s the same refresh rate as many other flagship smartphones, down to the LTPO technology that allows the refresh rate to drop down to 1Hz when you aren’t interacting with the screen.

It’s a beautiful display to look at, and it’s perfect for everything from watching movies to scrolling on social media. But here’s the most beautiful part of it all: it’s totally flat. Nothing didn’t curve the sides to make the device feel thinner, which means there aren’t any weird drop-offs or light reflections to be seen. It’s just a simple, flat screen, and I absolutely love it. It’s a breath of fresh air in a market full of Android phones that try to catch your eye with curves and slopes around their displays.

Nothing Phone (2) CNN-10

I’ve been taking a lot of pictures with the Phone (2), testing to see if they can stack up against the big dogs and give you great photos and videos for your collection. Surprisingly enough, they absolutely can.

The Phone (2)’s camera system is a meaningful upgrade over the Phone (1). It still uses a 50MP, f/1.9 main camera and 50MP, f/2.2 ultra-wide camera for the back, but pairs them with a new 18-bit Image Signal Processor (ISP) that can capture 4,000 times more camera data. That’s fancy talk for better exposure, color, detail — you name it. Nothing also includes Advanced HDR, which combines eight RAW frames captured with varying exposure levels and blends the best elements of each photo into the final image. It’s similar to how a lot of other camera phones work and is another big upgrade over the Phone (1), which could only blend three frames.

So, how do the photos look? See for yourself.

With its improved HDR, processing techniques and Motion Capture 2.0 for better shots of moving subjects, the Phone (2) can capture stellar photos. I was specifically impressed with its ability to balance saturation and contrast; it reminded me a lot of the Pixel 7, which is one of the biggest compliments I can give. That also means it’s not oversaturated, so those worried it would follow in Samsung’s footsteps can rest easy.

Compared to my iPhone 14 Pro Max, the Phone (2) was able to keep up in a variety of settings, from broad daylight at Rockefeller Plaza in New York to nighttime with cocktails at a rooftop bar. I’ll admit that the Phone (2) does struggle a bit to keep highlights in check (it’s a lot more willing to let them blow out than other phones I’ve tested), but it’s a minor nitpick in an otherwise excellent capturing experience.

Speaking of taking photos at nighttime, the Phone (2) was able to do that just fine. These images won’t take the crown from the Pixel’s astrophotography mode anytime soon, but each photo I got was detailed enough to encourage shooting some more. I can’t say that about every phone I use, let alone those from totally new companies.

Video quality is pretty decent. It’s a $600 Android phone, so my expectations weren’t very high to begin with, but I was happy with the clips I captured. Colors were well saturated and vibrant, while exposure and contrast were well-balanced. I did notice a few dropped frames if I moved around a lot, but it only happened a couple of times. And for the record, the videos I shot couldn’t beat what my iPhone is capable of, but it’s very good for a flagship, let alone one that costs well below $1,000.

As a side note, the Phone (2) supports shooting at up to 4K resolution and a smooth 60 frames per second, and you can freely switch between the main camera and ultra-wide while recording. I also found selfies taken with the 32MP shooter on the front to be perfectly good enough for Instagram and Snapchat.

Nothing’s Camera app is as easy to use as any you’ve tried in the past; it’s fast, responsive and shutter speed is top-notch. There’s a pro shooting mode for those who want to lock in precise camera settings before capturing, and you can even use the Glyph on the back as a fill light for your subject, which looks a lot more natural than the LED flash.

Overall, the Phone (2)’s cameras are very solid and reliable. While they won’t top the Galaxies, Pixels and iPhones of the world, they’re in the same ballpark in terms of quality and shooting modes. I’m really impressed with what Nothing has pulled off here.

Nothing wants the Phone (2) to be a flagship, and in order to do that, it has to pack in the right specs to get those great performance levels you look for in a high-end phone. I’m happy to report that’s just what Nothing has done here.

Nothing Phone (2) CNN-12

The device ships with last year’s Snapdragon 8 Plus Gen 1 processor that, admittedly, isn’t the latest chip you can get. However, just like the Moto Razr+, the processor can still deliver a serious punch when it comes to performance. I have yet to slow this phone down; I’ve thrown numerous games at it, multitasked a bunch and sporadically captured photos at the same time, all while the device kept chugging along with no issue. It feels just like using any other high-end phone that came out this year, so if speed is a point of interest to you, the Phone (2) will suit you well.

Here’s how the Phone (2) stacks up against other phones on Geekbench 6, a popular benchmarking app that can give you a ballpark idea of how powerful a phone is.

Nothing Phone (2)

iPhone 14

Google Pixel 7

Processor

Snapdragon 8+ Gen 1

Apple A15 Bionic

Google Tensor G2

Geekbench 5 (single-core performance)

1,674

2,181

1,426

Geekbench 5 (multi-core performance)

4,382

5,052

3,726

I’d also like to credit the Phone (2)’s great performance to the 12GB of RAM included in my review unit. It gives the device extra headroom to juggle all the stuff in the background, which, in turn, leads to better performance in whatever app you’re currently using. Nothing also ships a model with 8GB of RAM if you’d like to save some money, but I recommend getting one with 12GB if you plan on having the phone for an extended period of time.

The 4,700mAh battery inside can easily last all day on a full charge. The Snapdragon 8 Plus Gen 1’s efficiency, coupled with Nothing’s system-level optimizations, have resulted in reliable endurance that has gotten me through plenty of 16-hour days with 30% to 40% left in the tank.

Plenty of people have asked me whether the Glyph interface drains the battery, and the answer is no. Even when I’m using it as a flashlight throughout the day, you’re only looking at a difference of around 2% to 3% percent, which is basically nothing.

Nothing Phone (2) CNN-3

When it’s time to juice back up, the Phone (2) supports 45W fast charging over USB-C. That’s proper fast charging, mind you. Companies like Google and Apple think 20W-30W charging is fast, but by today’s standards, that’s absolutely nothing, especially when phones like the OnePlus 11 exist with 80W charging. Phones need to start at 45W to be considered fast in this day and age, so it’s nice to see Nothing include that spec here.

While there’s no wall charger in the box, the Phone (2) does ship with a USB-C cable that includes transparent end caps. It’s a minor detail, but it adds to the whole transparent aesthetic of the Nothing brand, and I dig it.

The device also ships with 15W wireless charging, as well as 5W reverse wireless charging (perfect for juicing up your Ear (2) earbuds on the go).

Nothing OS 2.0 is fast and responsive — and can help with smartphone addiction

Nothing’s skin on top of Android isn’t as intricate or overwhelming as something like Samsung’s One UI or OnePlus’ OxygenOS. Instead, it alludes to the experience of the Google Pixel and Motorola-branded handsets with minor tweaks and additional features to the core Android experience, which instantly makes this one of my favorite skins on Android to date.

Of course, you wouldn’t know it from the home screen. Nothing OS 2.0, the latest version of the company’s skin atop Android 13, aims to make your home screen more useful and less distracting by using a monochromatic design language. It’s completely optional, but if you turn it on, all your app icons will switch to simpler black and gray designs.

Nothing Phone 2 review software

Nothing sees this as an opportunity to take power away from certain apps that play on smartphone addiction by drawing you in with colorful icons (*cough* Instagram and TikTok *cough*). So instead of opening your phone to do something important and finding yourself scrolling through social media for an hour, Nothing hopes you’ll look for the app you need and not feel tempted to dive into something else when you go back to the home screen.

The best part? These icons apply to every app on your phone, so there aren’t any inconsistencies. In addition, you can toggle off the names of each app if you’d like, so that you don’t even have to look at certain words like “Twitter,” “Instagram,” “Threads” or “Facebook.”

I must admit, this is an incredibly useful feature. More often than not, I fall victim to the vibrancy of the Instagram logo on my home screen, which prompts me to “check it real quick” (read: for at least 25 minutes that I don’t have) the second I’ve finished whatever work I was doing. With Nothing’s monochromatic icons, that temptation is almost nonexistent, to the point where I’m on my phone for at least a half hour less every day.

Nothing also revamped a lot of its widgets with its dot matrix fonts and stylings, both of which have also crept into more areas of the Phone (2)’s software. You can add widgets directly to the lock screen for glanceable information, too.

I’d also like to point out the Experimental features section of the settings app. Why? Because it has some very cool stuff inside! There’s native support for AirPods (yes, those AirPods), system-level integration with the Tesla app, enhanced touch response for games, and third-party app support for the Glyph Interface. All these features will be a bit buggy — they’re experimental for a reason — but it’s cool to see Nothing shipping such unorthodox features.

Finally, let’s talk software support. Nothing is promising up to three years of major OS upgrades and four years of security patches. That’s a year or two behind other flagship Android phones, but it’s still long enough where you can keep using the Phone (2) well after you’ve purchased it.

Zoom is a bit limited on the Phone (2). Nothing provides a 2x button that crops into the frame and uses the center megapixels for a full-quality photo, but once you go past that, you’ll notice details and clarity aren’t as sharp. It caps off at just 10x which, admittedly, will be enough for some people. Personally, I would’ve liked to see a proper telephoto camera to round out the experience. I guess we’ll just have to wait for Phone (3).

Water and dust protection could be better

Nothing Phone (2) CNN

Nothing wants the Phone (2) to compete on every level with other flagships, but there’s one area that it doesn’t quite hold up: water resistance.

The Phone (2) has an IP54 certification, which is slightly better than the IP53 rating on the Phone (1). However, most other phones have an IP68 certification, which gives them far better resistance against submersion. You’ll be okay against light splashes or rain showers with the Phone (2), but I’d be extremely careful about carrying it around the pool.

There’s no two ways about it: the stereo speakers on the Nothing Phone (2) are pretty bad. I won’t go as far to call them terrible, but they lack definition and can get very tinny at high volumes. Granted, they do have a touch of bass which a lot of other smartphones lack, but you’ll be much better off with a Bluetooth speaker or headphones if you want to enjoy your music.

This is an area where you can tell Nothing had to start cutting costs.

The Phone (2) is certified to work on both AT&T and T-Mobile, but it’s not technically certified for Verizon. It’ll work on the Big Red carrier, mind you, but neither Nothing nor Verizon will tell you it’s officially supported.

It costs a lot of money to get a smartphone certified by carriers, and there’s a good chance Nothing didn’t want to hand over the millions of dollars required for the red checkmark. Keep this in mind if you plan to pick up the Phone (2) and use it with your Verizon plan.

Nothing Phone (2) CNN-2

The Phone (2) is a solid, reliable phone to use, but it’s still a bit of a risk.

Nothing doesn’t have a large presence in the U.S. whatsoever, and your only avenue of customer support is going through their website directly if you experience a problem with your device. You can’t take it to the Geek Squad at Best Buy, you can’t run to your carrier to ask questions — you’re at Nothing’s mercy, and it’s largely unclear whether that’s a good thing.

You also can’t use the Phone (2) before you buy it. Most people like to check out the latest iPhone or Galaxy at a carrier store before plunking down their credit cards to purchase it, but that experience can’t carry over to the Phone (2). Outside of a few pop-up kiosks around the world (and Nothing’s retail store in London), there’s really nowhere to test drive the device before you pull the trigger.

It’s also worth mentioning that Nothing doesn’t have any financing options for the device, there are very few accessories being made for it outside of a clear case and screen protector, and there are no trade-in offers.

These are all problems that arise when you’re dealing with a new company. If you buy a phone from a more established brand with retail presence, you can sleep soundly knowing you can pay for it how you want, check it out before you buy it and go to practically any online retailer for a case. The Phone (2) is extremely limited in all of these areas, which may scare a lot of people away from buying it.

So, should you buy the Nothing Phone (2)?

I’ve never tested a phone quite like it, to be honest. For its first attempt at a smartphone that’s available in the United States, Nothing has done an excellent job. Everything here feels polished, refined and cohesive, almost to the point where you’d think Nothing has been in the smartphone game for a decade. It’s quickly become of my favorite phones of the entire year.

That being said, it may be a tough sell for certain people. You’ll have to be all-in on supporting a much younger brand, one that doesn’t have the same customer support channels or carrier availability as the big dogs. Accessories, financing options and third-party retail support are also greatly limited.

Nothing Phone (2) CNN-5

It’s also worth mentioning that competition is extremely stiff right now. The Pixel 7 is often discounted as low as $400 these days. The same goes for the Galaxy S23, and there are even other phones like the Pixel 7a that offer flagship experiences for less than what the Phone (2) costs.

The focus of the Phone (2) is unique design, minimal software, excellent overall performance and a chance to stand out in the growingly similar smartphone market. At $599, the barrier for entry isn’t too steep, and I think it’s worth considering — as long as you’re cool with the growing pains that come with a new company.

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I test cameras for a living — this is the Prime Day camera deal I recommend, but it ends at midnight!

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What could be better than buying one of the best cameras in the world? When you can save hundreds of dollars with an Amazon Prime Day camera deal!

We’ve named the Sony A7R IV as the best camera overall in 2023 and its astronomy variant the best mirrorless camera for astrophotography and the Sony A7R IV is now over $200 off for Prime Day.

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Astrophotography with Mark Russell – Russell

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Dates


Learn the basics of Astrophotography, take full manual control of your camera, and make beautiful images of our night sky.

Taught by Mark Russell, a New Zealand photographer, who has been taking photos of the Milky Way and the dark sky for over a decade. Mark has worked closely with Aotea (Great Barrier Island) and the island of Nuie, assisting photographically in their successful applications to become Dark Sky Sanctuaries.

Mark makes the class welcoming and guarantees you will leave with the skills to take pictures of our night sky. Breaking down the techniques used, Mark will focus on your camera settings (shutter speed, aperture, ISO, white balance) along with lens selection, composition and also editing images through to publication.

Theory will be hands on (bring a camera and a tripod if you have one), with spares available for those without. Following the practical theory section, we will step outside and use the techniques just learned to take images of the night sky. The course runs in all weathers, with a backup shooting scenario planned if there is rain.

Haratu- Kororareka Marae is located on the picturesque and historic Russell waterfront.

Cost includes the 3hr workshop and a delicious supper platter with tea and coffee. Numbers are strictly limited and will sell out!



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