Photography In The National Parks: Death Valley Days

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A morning view at Father Crowley Vista Point, Death Valley National Park / Rebecca Latson

“I had absolutely no idea Death Valley National Park was so beautiful,” my amazed sister told me after looking at a few photos I’d emailed her from my May trip to this national park. Truth be told, I had no idea, either, of the beauty, color, and depth of the landscapes I would photograph. Even after poring through Flickr photos of Death Valley, I still envisioned a washed out, hazy, dusty panorama (including a cow skull or two) over which a blindingly bright sun produced furnace-hot air shimmers while sucking the moisture from everything it touched. Yes, it is dry, hot, and dusty out there, especially if you visit May through September. But everything I experienced and photographed, from the geology to the terra cotta colors of the corrugated hillsides, to the crazy slapdash look of the mountain rocks, to the sunrises, sunsets, and brilliant stars, to the quirky history of the park, people and land, won me over completely.

A visit to Death Valley with your cameras will reward you with awesome shots and teach you something about handling cameras and capturing photos in 114-degree F heat. Yes, I know, winter is the best time to visit for cooler temps and less haze, but sometimes, the only time you are free to travel to Death Valley is during the summer season. You go when you can go. A visit in the summer will also teach you about handling yourself under constant heat. It’s all about water, water, and more water … plus sunglasses, light clothing, a little sunscreen, and common sense.

Park staff, signs, and other printed materials cautioning the Death Valley visitor to restrict or even curtail their activities after 10 a.m. during the summer season are spot on – especially for photography. Morning and late afternoon / evening times are best for saturated light, shadows, and depth anyway, so you might as well heed those cautions. Besides, from 10 a.m. until 5 p.m., the sun is, indeed, bright, sharp, and harsh. It’s also quite hazy (actually, it’s hazy by 8 a.m.). And it’s hot, hot, hot. The hotter it gets, the hotter your camera will feel to the touch. The late afternoon heat remained so intense one day that my medium format camera registered a yellow thermometer warning icon on the LCD screen. First time I’d ever seen that! I put that baby back into the backpack pronto, returning to the air-conditioned comfort of my rental truck quickly thereafter.

In addition to the heat, you should remember to affix the lens you wish to whatever camera you have and leave it on. It’s sandy and dusty (especially near the dunes), often quite windy, and if you are at Badwater Basin, there’s salt in the air. Dust and salt can finagle their way onto your camera’s sensor and into your camera’s system a bit or a bunch whenever you switch lenses out in the field. Even when the camera is “weather resistant.” Sometimes, the lens switching can’t be avoided, but try not to do this too much, if possible, and keep your back to the wind.

Ok, so what kind of images can you get, aside from the iconic shots? Well, I strongly advise getting those iconic shots. Why, when a gazillion images exist out there of those places already? Because your image is going to be different from those gazillion others. The change in seasons, the size and shape of the clouds, the quality of the light, the time of day – all these together create a unique image specifically yours captured at that one moment in time. Yes, even if you are standing next to a person aiming their camera in the same general direction. So go ahead and click that shutter button at Zabriskie Point, Dantes View, Badwater Basin, Mesquite Flat Sand Dunes, Father Crowley Vista Point, and all those other famous spots.

Oh, speaking of iconic spots and sunrises, sunsets, and star shots: the views at Zabriskie Point and Dantes View look west, so sunrise will bathe the Panamint Mountains across the valley, eventually moving over the valley and ultimately immersing the nearby hills with golden light. If you wish to photograph the actual sun rising above the mountains, you’ll need to turn your camera and face the landscape behind you.

Sunrise over Manly Beacon at Zabriskie Point, Death Valley National Park / Rebecca Latson

Watching the sun rise behind me at Dantes View, Death Valley National Park / Rebecca Latson

In my opinion, you’ll get more sunrise bang for your buck at Zabriskie Point. Ditto for “blue hour,” which is that time of morning and evening when the landscape and sky are colored with shades of purple, blue and pink prior to sunrise and just after sunset.

Blue hour at Zabriskie Point, Death Valley National Park / Rebecca Latson

Dantes View and Zabriskie Point are both great for sunsets and star shots. I’m a sunrise kind of gal, but I photographed more sunsets than sunrises in this national park.

Sunset at Dantes View, Death Valley National Park / Rebecca Latson

I did also manage to stay up late enough to capture a starry night at Dantes View. The next time I visit Death Valley, I’m going to try and photograph sunset and stars at Badwater Basin.

Sunset’s afterglow and the beginning of night at Dantes View, Death Valley National Park / Rebecca Latson

Look for interesting shapes, patterns, and textures. The polygonal salt patterns reflecting the mud cracks beneath at Badwater Basin make amazing compositions.

Salt flat and storm clouds at Badwater Basin, Death Valley National Park / Rebecca Latson

Heck, even the geometry of a view area is great for a photo.

The curvy pavement to and from Zabriskie Point, Death Valley National Park / Rebecca Latson

A salt flat seen from the height of Dantes View, Death Valley National Park / Rebecca Latson

Why on earth would you want to photograph a view area or a building or something manmade? Well, aside from the fact that most of the infrastructure in the park has some sort of history associated with it, those objects flesh out the story of your Death Valley experience. If you can see the beauty in something like the curving pavement from parking lot to Zabriskie Point view area, and even compare it to a salt flat out on the valley that looks eerily similar in shape, then you’ve got great powers of photographic observation. Remember, capture shots of what interests you, be it a view area, a close-up of salt on a salt flat, or the mud cracks of an ancient lakebed. All these images tell your personal park adventure story.

A delicate crust of salt, Death Valley National Park / Rebecca Latson

Creosote bushes, sand, and an ancient lakebed at Mesquite Flat, Death Valley National Park / Rebecca Latson

Death Valley is a great national park in which to include shots of people. Really? Yes, really. The people you see in the images below are great scale and reference.

Viewing Artists Palette, Death Valley National Park / Rebecca Latson

Walking back to the parking lot at Badwater Basin, Death Valley National Park / Rebecca Latson

These landscapes are much larger / broader / taller than you’d think, and without some frame of reference your viewers can apply to the landscape, they won’t know the width and breadth of a feature. Humans, vehicles, buildings, anything else man-made helps your viewer get a sense of the size and provides that frame of reference for comparison.

Plus, people can add a bit of human interest.

Waiting for sunrise at Zabriskie Point, Death Valley National Park / Rebecca Latson

Speaking of people, don’t forget to include yourself in some shots. You provide as much scale and reference as the next person, you know.

Becky at Badwater Basin, Death Valley National Park / Rebecca Latson

If you’ve read any of my other photo columns, you’ll know I’m a huge proponent of the leading line technique. It’s my favorite theme, and Death Valley provides plenty of leading line photo ops guiding the viewer’s eye from one part of your image to the other while allowing them to take in every detail of your composition. The road across the Panamint Valley is a fantastic leading line subject, as is Badwater Road and Artists Drive leading to Artists Palette.

The road across Panamint Valley heading east, Death Valley National Park / Rebecca Latson

Don’t forget to experiment with your shots. For instance, I never created many panoramic shots consisting of multiple images stitched together using a photo editor like Adobe Photoshop. Dantes View provided the perfect opportunity for me to try my hand at this technique. The image below is a panorama of seven combined images.

Dantes View morning panorama, Death Valley National Park / Rebecca Latson

Any broad landscape provides great panoramic material. You can take as many or as few shots as you wish. Just remember all the images should be at the same level (no moving the tripod up and down for different shots for your panorama). Handholding your camera is not really a good idea for this technique, although you can do it. Even your smartphone creates panoramas. Bear in mind a panorama created from multiple images will take up quite a bit of space on your computer.

Converting a color image to monochrome is a fantastic experiment producing dramatic compositions emphasizing texture, pattern, light, and shadows. Death Valley, in addition to being a land of extremes, is also a land of contrasts: sharp, textured clarity versus soft, shadowy curves. Black-and-white imagery highlights these contrasts without the distraction (if you can call it that) of added color, allowing your viewer to concentrate on those textural and light differences.

An oncoming storm over Badwater Basin in black-and-white, Death Valley National Park / Rebecca Latson

A monochrome morning view toward the Badwater Basin parking lot waaay in the distance, Death Valley National Park / Rebecca Latson

I know I’ve already stressed how hot it can get during the summer months (which includes late spring and autumn). What I have not yet mentioned but what you will see for yourself – usually after uploading the file to your computer – is product of the heat out there – a wavey, almost unfocused appearance to your images when using a telephoto lens. This issue is known as “heat shimmer” or “heat haze” and I noticed this with photos I’d taken of Mesquite Flat Sand Dunes using my 100 – 400mm lens. Heat shimmer occurs when you look at objects (or photograph them) through a layer of heated air. Quora.com writes that heat changes the air density and thus its index of refraction (i.e., how much the light bends between your eye and the object). A further search on Google indicates this issue may be mitigated to a certain extent by using a lens hood and polarizing filter. I used both, but my sand dune images still show heat shimmer. Maybe the effect would have been greater had I not used a hood and polarizer filter – I don’t know. Even if your image displays a little heat haze, doesn’t it shout out to you “it’s HOT here”?

An example of heat shimmer effect on an image, Mesquite Flat Sand Dunes, Death Valley National Park / Rebecca Latson

Exploring the Mesquite Flat Sand Dunes – the full view, Death Valley National Park / Rebecca Latson

A caveat of visiting Death Valley during the summer season (aside from the heat) is that your backgrounds will be hazy. According to the NPS, pollutants blow into the park “from metropolitan areas, industrial areas, and transportation corridors from the west.” Nature also adds its own two-cents’-worth of haze by “blowing dust into the air. But humans increase the amount of dust available to be blown by the wind when they drive on unpaved roads or break up the salt crust by walking on it.”

Can you mitigate haze in your images? Sometimes, a circular polarizing filter diminishes some of that haze, as does a grad ND filter. There is also a fix you can apply while processing your hazy images, depending upon what your photo editor offers. It’s called “dehazing.” I use Adobe Lightroom for a first pass at editing and there’s a dehaze slider on that program. Judicious use of that slider helps reduce or eliminate atmospheric haze. On the other hand, sometimes haze makes for a nice effect to tell your photographic story. To see less haze in your landscapes, Death Valley during the winter is the ideal time because of improved air quality since the winds and air mass originate “in a less developed area,” as opposed to LA, San Francisco, Sacramento, and all those other West Coast big cities.

The salt trail to a salt flat at Badwater Basin – original view, Death Valley National Park / Rebecca Latson

The salt trail to a salt flat at Badwater Basin – dehazed mountains, Death Valley National Park / Rebecca Latson

Despite the haze created by mid-May heat, this hottest, driest, lowest national park provides photographic surprises around every corner. A visit to Death Valley National Park, no matter what time of year, will win you over as completely as it’s done me. And like me, you might even wish to return for a second visit.

That one moment in time at Zabriskie Point, Death Valley National Park / Rebecca Latson

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How to take great photos on a smartphone: Travel photography tips

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Scott Howes shares his top tips for taking photographs on a phone while travelling. Photo / Scott Howes

Whether you’re spending the summer in Europe or embracing a South Island ski season, capturing photographs is the ultimate way to create memories and share your travels with loved ones.

Thanks to the ever-improving quality of smartphone cameras, you don’t have to spend thousands on a DSLR camera to take stunningly detailed photos and high-definition videos.

However, there are a few tips and tricks to know if you want your travel snaps to stand out. Herald Travel asks talented photographer and content creator Scott Howes to share his five biggest tips for nailing ‘the shot’ on a smartphone camera.

Hailing from London, Scott Howes has lived and worked as a commercial photographer in New Zealand for several years. Photo / Scott Howes
Hailing from London, Scott Howes has lived and worked as a commercial photographer in New Zealand for several years. Photo / Scott Howes

1. Use grids and guides

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I would always recommend people turn on the grids and guides and level on their camera phone, it’s game-changing.

Most phones have the option to add a grid, which basically puts two lines down the middle and two lines across your screen. This helps you follow a popular rule in photography called the ‘rule of thirds’.

I use the grids feature every day on my phone and on my actual cameras and it means you can line up the subject or the frame that you’re trying to shoot, and place them in one of the ‘thirds’, which makes it more aesthetically pleasing.

Most smartphones also have a level in them, to save you from taking wonky photos and videos.

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2. Take time and take it right

Travel can be crazy and super fast-paced and it’s easy to get excited and just snap away. It’s only when you get home to edit or review the photos you may realise you’re not happy with them.

So, despite having taken photos professionally for years, I still often take a step back and pause before taking the shot, because if you get it right ‘in camera’ it saves you so much work editing later on.

Howes recently travelled around Japan and took many photographs on an Oppo phone. Photo / Scott Howes
Howes recently travelled around Japan and took many photographs on an Oppo phone. Photo / Scott Howes

3. Think differently

I think one of the keys of photography is not to just point and shoot. Maybe research your destination beforehand and find unique places to photograph or a way to capture a popular spot differently. For instance, everyone who goes to Roys Peak takes that same standard shot looking down the viewpoint but there are endless possibilities for different photos; it just takes some time to find them.

4. Don’t forget the light

The time of day is key because the lighting is what makes a photo. For me personally, sunrise and sunset are the best times of day to shoot. The sun isn’t as high in the sky so you don’t get harsh light, it’s softer and creates nicer shadows too.

I’ll admit, getting up at 4am for a sunrise shot isn’t for everybody, some people go on holiday just to chill. Either way, lighting is worth thinking about when you take a photo and going a little earlier or later in the day can help you miss crowds at popular attractions.

Howes said Chureito Pagoda, in Fujiyoshida, was an iconic 'tourist shot' many people take while visiting. Photo / Scott Howes
Howes said Chureito Pagoda, in Fujiyoshida, was an iconic ‘tourist shot’ many people take while visiting. Photo / Scott Howes

5. Try shooting in Raw

Usually, you can let the smartphone choose the camera settings for you. But if you want to take your photos a step further, you can shoot in RAW if your phone camera has a ‘pro mode’. This is how we shoot on a DSLR camera and the image is minimally processed, which gives you more freedom when editing your photos in an app like Lightroom.

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BE IN TO WIN!

Thanks to OPPO, we have one Find N2 Flip smartphone to give away, valued at $1679.

The OPPO Find N2 Flip is full of great features, including an invisible crease, large front screen, 50MP Hasselblad camera setup, fast charge, long-lasting battery, and cool designs.

To enter, go to nzherald.co.nz/win and fill in your details.

The competition closes at 11.59pm on Monday August 7. Terms and conditions apply.

Be in to win an OPPO Find N2 Flip smartphone with Herald Travel. Photo / Supplied
Be in to win an OPPO Find N2 Flip smartphone with Herald Travel. Photo / Supplied

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Summer travel: NZ’s best places for stargazing and sleeping under the stars

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Suspended high over Lake Wakatipu, Jagged Edge is just a 10-minute drive from Queenstown. Photo / Supplied

Balmy temperatures and no work to get up early for the next morning are the perfect combination for sleeping under the stars. Here are some of the best places in New Zealand to marvel at the night sky.

Stargazing

Aotea Great Barrier Island

Good Heavens offers cosy and light-hearted experiences for small groups, with “moon chairs”, hot drinks and blankets. Suitable for all ages, a guide uses a laser pointer to identify constellations, everyone has binoculars to gaze at middle-distance objects and an 8-inch telescope allows a closer view of faraway stars and planets. Great Barrier and Stewart Island (see below) are two of the world’s 15 Dark Sky Sanctuaries.

Good Heavens will guide you through our solar system from a beach on the Dark Sky Sanctuary, Aotea Great Barrier Island. Photo / Carmen Bird
Good Heavens will guide you through our solar system from a beach on the Dark Sky Sanctuary, Aotea Great Barrier Island. Photo / Carmen Bird

The Coromandel

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Stargazers Lodge guests and visitors can book a night-sky tour of the observatory and planetarium in the light pollution-free zone overlooking Kuaotunu. Its solar-powered, rotating-dome observatory houses a research-grade set-up, perfect for the astro-curious and photographers.

Wairarapa

Just an hour north of Wellington, Wairarapa wants to become the world’s largest and most accessible dark sky destination. Here you’ll find Stonehenge Aotearoa, built on the same scale as some other place on Salisbury Plain in England.

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It’s not a folly. Open-air, hands-on Stonehenge Aotearoa is a modern observatory connecting people with the sky and cycles of nature, covering solstices, equinoxes, Matariki, ancient Egyptian, Babylonian and Indus Valley astronomy, Polynesian navigation, as well as Celtic and Māori lore.

Under the Stars runs bespoke events for schools or house parties, and every weekend, Star Safari opens the universe with powerful telescopes, planetarium tours and space science communicators. It’s a social enterprise from Milky-Way.Kiwi, an online platform for space and astronomy news with a New Zealand flavour.

Mackenzie

At 4367sq km, Aoraki Mackenzie International Dark Sky Reserve is a master of the universe, covering Aoraki Mt Cook National Park and the Mackenzie Basin, the townships of Tekapo, Twizel and Mt Cook. This rugged, isolated land, dominated by large sheep stations for more than a century, has some of the world’s clearest, most spectacular night skies.

As well as a great camping spot, Lake Tekapo is in the Aoraki Mackenzie International Dark Sky Reserve, making it one of the best spots in the world for stargazing. Photo / Miles Holden
As well as a great camping spot, Lake Tekapo is in the Aoraki Mackenzie International Dark Sky Reserve, making it one of the best spots in the world for stargazing. Photo / Miles Holden

Scientifically, it’s important because it protects the University of Canterbury’s astronomy research at Mt John Observatory.

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A world leader in astro-tourism, there’s no end of inventive ideas here.

Alpha CruX provides private astronomy tours and astrophotography lessons throughout the region.

Big Sky Stargazing’s tour uses the naked eye, astro-binoculars and state-of-the-art telescopes, delivered from an outdoor viewing platform or, if the weather’s unkind, New Zealand’s first 360-degree digital Dome Planetarium at the Sir Edmund Hillary Centre in Mt Cook Village.

Here, science meets entertainment. Families “leave Earth, fly to the edge of our galaxy and far beyond to the reaches of our known universe” and get home in time for supper.

Chameleon Stargazing is a more budget and family-friendly tour in a near-zero light pollution location in Tekapo (with hot chocolate and a fire bowl with roasted marshmallows).

Ngāi Tahu Tourism’s Dark Sky Project is the best-known experience. Its observatory tours are boosted with explanations of Māori navigation, planting, significance of lunar cycles and observations.

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West Coast

It’s fair to stay the West Coast’s skies are stunning on a clear night. Paparoa Nature Tours in Punakaiki take guests to explore the Milky Way and southern constellations through a computerised 260mm telescope while being serenaded by great spotted kiwi, morepork and weka from nearby rainforest.

Queenstown

A Starry Nights Queenstown photography tour with astro-photographer Simon Williams includes a trip around spectacular Whakatipu Basin locations in a Land Rover, a professionally curated photo session and tips on shooting stars.

Dark skies, southern lights - Rakiura Stewart Island is now a sanctuary for stargazing. Photo / Supplied
Dark skies, southern lights – Rakiura Stewart Island is now a sanctuary for stargazing. Photo / Supplied

Rakiura Stewart Island

A Unihedron Sky Quality Meter reading of 16 indicates a light-polluted city and 21 a very dark sky. Stewart Island’s readings have ranged between 21.51-21.93 since 2017. Twinkle Dark Sky Tours are one of several local operators helping you see everything from craters on the Moon to the centre of the galaxy.

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Accommodation

PurePods

These luxury cabins can now be found in nine locations, stretching from Banks Peninsula to the newest on Rakiura Stewart Island. Each off-grid cabin has uninterrupted views of the night sky, but you don’t have to worry about people looking in — they’re all in secluded spots far from light pollution, with the exact location revealed only after you book. purepods.com

Night skies over the Manakau Purepod at Kaikōura. Photo / Supplied
Night skies over the Manakau Purepod at Kaikōura. Photo / Supplied

Galaxy Boutique Hotel

Tekapo’s Galaxy Boutique Hotel is a traditional hotel with some stand-out features — namely, large splayed skylights that allow views of the mountains and night sky beyond. Make sure to nab a room on the upper floor for the best seat in the house. galaxytekapo.co.nz

Skylark Cabin

Hidden in the foothills of the Ben Ohau range is Skylark Cabin, which quietly opened in 2020, yet is the type of place that visitors can’t stop talking about. Designed by award-winning architect Barry Connor, it boasts a huge circular window directly over the bed, positioned so guests can spend a night under the stars. An outdoor stainless steel bathtub with gas-heated hot water can also be found on the property, making it possible to soak while you soak it all in. skylarkcabin.co.nz

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Wai Dome O, Waikato

Wai Dome O (a play on “Waitomo”) is one of Canopy Camping’s properties — and it’s only a few minutes away from Waikato’s famous glowworm caves.

The geodesic dome is positioned at the top of a steep hill with views over rolling farmland, meaning it’s in a prime position for stargazing. But if you want to be even more immersed in the landscape, it also has an outdoor tub. canopycamping.co.nz/wai-dome-o

Nightsky Cottage

Side-by-side soaker tubs at Horopito’s award-winning Nightsky Cottage are positioned to look out a large window. The aptly named two-bedroom cottage also has skylights, so you can find constellations without stepping outside. But if you’re keen to get outdoors, there’s a clearing just 50 metres from the cottage, where you can watch the sun go down over Mt Ruaephu. nightskycottage.co.nz

Jagged Edge

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Suspended high over Lake Wakatipu, the ultra-modern Jagged Edge is all sharp lines, softened by its use of floor-to-ceiling glass. The glass walls jut out from the base at an 18-degree angle rising to over 9 metres, resulting in 270-degree views of the night sky in each of the luxury retreat’s three bedrooms. But that’s not the end of your stargazing options. There’s also a heated infinity pool hanging over the lake, alongside numerous outdoor seating areas. It’s just a 10-minute drive from Queenstown.

This is an amended version of previously published stories by Ewan McDonald and Jessica Wynne Lockhart from Herald Travel. For more great travel inspiration, go to nzherald.co.nz/travel

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